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Repower 52c 8v92TI to Detroit Series 60

  • Thread starter Thread starter rustybucket
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I apologize if you've already stated it, but what gearbox are you going to be running? ratios? Have you thought about wheels yet?
I'm hoping to get a new set this summer so I was just curious.
 
I apologize if you've already stated it, but what gearbox are you going to be running? ratios? Have you thought about wheels yet?
I'm hoping to get a new set this summer so I was just curious.
The engines came with ZF 335A gears with a 1.58 ratio. More than likely going to have to re-prop. Will go with 4 blade acme's if repropping is needed.
 
Got a few work sessions in this past weekend. The focus was on the drain holes between the stringer grids. The original drains were 1" pvc pipe. Due to the circular size and placement of the drains none of the stringer grids ever fully drained. Some would leave 1" or more standing water in them. In addition almost all of them were leaking some water into the stringers. Seeing that we have everything torn apart and I had to remove the existing drains to de-water the areas we were glassing/gelcoating I wanted to take the opportunity to improve on the drains.

I had a couple sticks of 4" fiberglass exhaust tube laying around the shop. I cut it in half long ways, so ended up with half moon pieces. I then marked the drain locations with a pencil and cut them in.

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The biggest offenders for holding water were the outboard to inboard drains that drain into the main bilges. The pvc pipes were 1/2" off the bottom of the floor. The new drains are flush with the floor.
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After cutting them, I filled any voids with butter and laid 1 layer of 1.5oz matt in the bottoms and rolled it flat/fair. Didn't get any pics of that as I was in a rush finishing up but will snap a few next trip down.

Next I will bond the drains in with butter, let that set and then glass them in.

4" half moon drains is probably overkill, 3" or even 2" would have been better than what was there but being that I already had the 4" material on hand I saved a few boat bucks by utilizing what I already had. One thing is for certain should be significantly easier to wash the bilges now and hopefully most all of the water will drain out resulting in less standing stinky water.
 
What are you using for butter? ;)
 
What are you using for butter? ;)
Custom mix it for whatever the application. Vinyl Ester resin is always the base then I add whatever fillers needed. Cotton Flock for thickening and strength/structure. 1/8" and/or 1/4" chop strand for structure/strength. In the past have also used milled fibers, talc, micro balloons..etc. For the drain floors I just used cotton for the butter, thickened to mayo consistency, then a layer of 1.5oz mat on top. The mat helps to be able to roll/shape the butter to whatever shape you need and hold it's shape until cured which takes about an hour or so to kick.

If the butter is to be used for a structural component or bonding in a structural component chop strand is added to basically create a butter that acts like layers of mat laminated.
 
The center bilge which is in the forward portion of the center engine room walkway has always been a problem with holding water forward of the recessed bilge container and around it. So I glassed in a wedge of divinycell and better contoured the floor around the compartment to better funnel water into the recessed bilge pump tray.
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Then a couple of coats of gelcoat on the remaining portions of the engine room. Things are really starting to look nice.

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Sanding fair between gelcoat coats. Always a fun job, not.
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With the new engines having digital displays and far less switches...etc the helm either needed a major patch job and re-work or just chop it off and build a new one. I opted for the later, so this past weekend the helm got CHOPPED!!

We will be building a 1 off mold to create the new helm.

The new helm will have an angled panel where the gauges and compass were. Compass will be moved forward of the helm. 3x Garmin 12" displays will be placed where the gauges and compass are. The angle of that panel will be increased a few degrees to make it easier to read the displays when seated at the helm.

All switches will be replaced and moved to the area near where the old shifters were. The vertical panel where the old switches were will just be a flat fiberglass panel. I got really tired of people (myself included) leaning into the switches and turning stuff on/off, especially in rough water.

A helm pod will be added to house the steering wheel and the single lever shifters.

Do other people just cut off chunks of their boat? Asking for a friend?
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If you want an omelette, you have to break a few eggs. Lookin good!
 
Could you install a big hinge strip, latches and a weather seal on re-assembly?
Future services under the dash could be a lot easier if it opens up like a chest freezer.
 
Could you install a big hinge strip, latches and a weather seal on re-assembly?
Future services under the dash could be a lot easier if it opens up like a chest freezer.
While that would be very nice the efforts to make it waterproof and super strong/sturdy prolly wouldn't be worth the squeeze for me. Plus the last thing I need right now is another project added to the project lol. Ready to get this 'ol gal back into the water ASAP!
 
New helm design mock-up. Ignore the sharp edges, holes...etc the entire part will be a single piece of fiberglass.

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No teak like the custom guys ?
 
No teak like the custom guys ?
Although it could be painted on in the future I decided against it for now. Don't think I'd ever use real teak in this application, just something else to maintain lol. For now it's just going to be hatteras white like the rest of the dash/helm.
 
I have seen examples of painters being able to duplicate the look of teak. It is hard to tell the difference , plus no maintance .
 
I have seen examples of painters being able to duplicate the look of teak. It is hard to tell the difference , plus no maintance .
Most all of the sportfish boats built today only use teak on the floor and gunnel caps. Everything else is painted faux teak, helms, transoms, salon walls, mezzanines, toe rails...etc. Some of the painters are amazingly talented and visually it's almost identical to real teak. Sourcing real teak has become a major issue so it's use has been cut back to only areas where feel/function of real teak is required.
 
It is really incredible how natural it looks .Lot of the boats out of Wanchese do this .
 
We had a little bit of free time this week to move the helm project forward. Got the mold finished off and ready for a part layup. Hoping we start the layup friday!

Frankendashmold lol Being that this is a one-off mold with negative draft the mold will literally be knocked off the part piece by piece, so no need to make a pretty mold, it's just gotta be functional. Used up quite a bit of our scrap plywood too so that's a win!
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Inside of the mold before radius's are put in.
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Mold was screwed together then outside edges were glued with a bondo/gelcoat/cotton flock putty.
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Old dash when the mold was popped off
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Filling gaps and getting it ready for fillets
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Radius's going in!
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Finished, sanded and waxed. Will put a few more layers of wax then spray the mold with PVA. Gelcoat will go on first then glass.
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Gelcoat on! Fiberglass layup starting today!
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