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Help for Source of a 110 Winch for my davit.

  • Thread starter Thread starter sandspur1966
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sandspur1966

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Aug 6, 2007
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' MOTOR YACHT-Series I (1977 - 1980)
There are no markings anywhere on the davit or the damned winch. I sent pics to nautical structures and Marquipt and neither say its their winch and the PO didn't keep any paperwork on it.

The winch operates fine but the brake has been getting worse and worse.

Was hoping that the collective experience here could point me towards finding a replacement winch or some wisdom on fixing this one.

You will notice some kind of resistor that I assume is what automatically engages and disengages the brake. There is a lead broken off of that but even when I jump it, the brake slips under the load of my 13ft RIB.

The golo winches all seem to be perpendicular and the motor on mine... as you cans ee in the pic is stacked on top of the drum.
 
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That looks like it came from http://umtmarine.com/. I have the same one for mine which is a YDR-1000.

Dan
 
Thanks, I just sent them the pics and they said they have the winches in stock... for $780.00.

I asked who makes the actual winch and he said a name I didnt catch but quickly stated that they "modify" them. I cant help feeling I am getting the old marine Two-$tep here.

This winch below is $420 bucks and damned if that plate on the front of it doesn't

http://www.toolfetch.com/p-250-sa12000ac-1.shtml
 
Thanks, I just sent them the pics and they said they have the winches in stock... for $780.00.

I asked who makes the actual winch and he said a name I didnt catch but quickly stated that they "modify" them. I cant help feeling I am getting the old marine Two-$tep here.

This winch below is $420 bucks and damned if that plate on the front of it doesn't

http://www.toolfetch.com/p-250-sa12000ac-1.shtml
 
mine is a Golo power winch and i have the instructions. Must be original, since a piece of paper inserted in the booklet mentions modifications for 1972...

about the brakes, it states that brush and commutator contact is critical for the dynamic brake to take place. if braking becomes less efficient, it says to check, replace or reseat the brushes.

not sure if it applies to yours, but might be something to look at.
 
You might want to take that by a local electric motor shop; if they can't refurbish it they may point you to someone who can.
 
I traced it down to good ole American company named Dutton Lainson. I know I'm preaching to the choir here but ... boy what a difference that makes.

I phoned them up and explained my situation. The woman on the phone (In Nebraska not India) was immediately helpful. I emailed her the pics and she traced down a sales person who knew their product well enough to identify it on site.

They said I should ship it to them and for 140 bucks they will rebuild it and send it back to me.

God I miss that type of interaction... I called LG yesterday because a DVD recorder I bought a month ago stopped working and after an hour being bounced around people with poor English and fake names I finally just threw the damned thing in the trash.

Buy American or be prepared to throw it away.
 
I'll second the support for the enthusiastic and helpful folks at Dutton-Lainson. I bought my 110V winch from them last year to replace the ancient one on my davit that had rotted away. Fully prepared to be raped on price, I was pleasantly surprised to buy the new one on sale for $250.00. Great people!
 
I had a umt 1100 lb davit installed in 2006. I like the fact that this unit had a rectifier in the davit head that converted the 110 A/C to 12 volts D/C for the motor and more importantly the wired remote that I hold while opperating it.
 
On electric motors such as the one pictured, very often as the brushes get shorter from rotation wear on the commutator (armature) the spring tension weakens and loose contact and excess sparking occurs. In addition, carbon dust often lodges between the commutator sections and weakens the motor.

Romoving the brushs to see if they are mere stubs, replacing if necessary, and brushing the commutator to remove carbon dust is often all that is needed. If the armature bearings are shot, a brand specific cure is required. But if it's just replacing brushes, all you need are some that fit...it's rare for the gears to fail, but greasing them and their bearings can help.
 
My winch failed at a fairly inconvenient time over the weekend. Marquipt was not too helpful but did offer a new winch for $650 plus shipping lead time unknown. Thanks to this thread I just shipped it on UPS to Dutton Lainson, $150 for rebuilding it and 2 day turnaround time. Great! Thanks for starting this thread it really helped me out!

DC
 
I believe that this winch from W W Grainger is the same one. ( grainger.com/Grainger/items/5AA21?Pid=search )
 
I had my winch crap out one time with the whaler half up. I keep a
come-along on the boat and was able to lower it with that.
 
ahhhhhh. Need one of those i guess
 
Come alongs have gotten my butt out of trouble more times than I can ever think about.Less than $40 at Ace or somewhere else.I've pulled cars and mowers out of ditches motors out of cars and airplanes.One hell of a tool!!!Buy the one with the longest and heavest cable you can get.Robby
 

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