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43MY Shaft Coupler Removal

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sparky66

Active member
Joined
Oct 19, 2024
Messages
111
Location
Ohio
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' MOTOR YACHT (1984 - 1987)
What is the procedure for removing this coupler? Looks like I need to pull the cotter pin, but then how to you remove the nut? It appears the nut is only slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole, so I don't see how a socket would get in there. I am planning on making a puller from c-channel, but need to remove the nut first.
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You'll need a spanner socket or wrench. Then put a socket or spacer of some sort against the end of the shaft and tighten the coupler back up to the trans as it pushes the shaft out.
 
Special tools required.

The nut has castelations and a Special spanner will back it off. The you need a very strong puller. Not simple c channel. Also a torch can be used to quickly heat the coupler when under stress from the puller. Its a taper fit like a prop and can be hard to remove.
 
SKYCHENEY said:
You'll need a spanner socket or wrench. Then put a socket or spacer of some sort against the end of the shaft and tighten the coupler back up to the trans as it pushes the shaft out.
Click to expand...
OK, I thought that there might be something that goes in the slots of the castellated nut. Anyone know specifically the correct tool? I have the puller part figured out.
 
I'd just make one. Its probably just a one time use anyway.
 
From other research, it appears that you really need to use a socket to get the nut off. It might be possible to find a thin-wall one, but it looks like it will likely need to be ground down. Of course I didn't get good measurements for that before I left the boat.
 
I followed the instructions that Hatteras put in the blue prints for my 46C with 2.5" shafts. Once you get the cotter pin out and the nut loose thread the nut back on but not all the way. The picture showed only a thread or two but I probably went three. Then get some bolts 1/2" longer than the ones on it. Make sure they are fine thread as they apply more torque. Place 2 bolts 180 degrees apart and bolt back up to the output flange on the transmission. Then rotate tightening until you hear a pop. You will think it is your wrench breaking and you will probably need a cheater bar. You will also need to secure the shaft from rotating. I also applied home made crow oil into the hole where the keyway goes for several weeks prior. You are beyond that but could put some on now. Hatteras also recommends coating with never seize when you bolt back up.
 
sparky66 said:
From other research, it appears that you really need to use a socket to get the nut off. It might be possible to find a thin-wall one, but it looks like it will likely need to be ground down. Of course I didn't get good measurements for that before I left the boat.
Click to expand...
What size shaft do you have? If it is 2 1/2" this socket fits inside the shaft. I used calipers to measure on mine and hunted online until I found this one to save all that grinding

Amazon.com: JXHONG 3/4" Drive 2-3/4" (70mm) Impact Socket, 6-Point, Heat Treated : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: JXHONG 3/4" Drive 2-3/4" (70mm) Impact Socket, 6-Point, Heat Treated : Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
 
43 my has smaller shafts. If memory serves 2 inch or 1.75.

Sometimes a socket can be modified but remember the installation requires a little of torque to reseat it.

Don't take shortcuts.

I hire a local mechanic I know well to do these for my customers all the time. He's usually in and out on 2 shafts in less than an hour.
 
It is 1-3/4" shaft. Looks like there are multiple methods for popping the shaft.
 
I use proper sized deep sockets and 1/2" impact gun. Never had a special socket.
I would guess that a big black impact socket may not fit in there. My sockets were regular chrome plated deep sockets.
If the shaft does not tap off, place the nut partially back on the shaft end to protect the shaft end threads, Make up some spacers between this nut and the out flange nut and use the outer flange bolts to press the shaft out. Use all of the outer flange bolts and tighten up evenly to avoid flange distortion.
Sometimes, when all of those bolts are tight pressing against the shaft, a BFH on the coupler will help,, PING!!!!
 
So, why are you dropping the coupler?
 
My couplings are different, so please forgive an ignorant question. Is there a chance that ring pulls out of the coupling? Based on the picture, it looks like the ID of the coupling is larger than that ring. It seems odd that they would machine the coupling ID with a step in it.
 
Last edited:
I used a regular socket to break the nut loose and back it out. I do NOT recommend putting a socket against that nut however to break the shaft loose. It is a rather soft metal and it will be ruined if you put a large socket that fits over the shaft but not over the nut to press the shaft out. Use a socket that fits inside the castellated nut and applies pressure to the shaft alone. Then put a plate or angle iron over that with bolts (fine thread machine bolts) to the coupling to push the shaft out.
Ask me how I know.
I had to have the shop chase the castellated nuts out to make them useable again.

So back the castellated nut off, flip it over, install it part way. Insert a socket inside that and use that to apply pressure to the shaft.
 
Avenger said:
My couplings are different, so please forgive an ignorant question. Is there a chance that ring pulls out of the coupling? Based on the picture, it looks like the ID of the coupling is larger than that ring. It seems odd that they would machine the coupling ID with a step in it.
Click to expand...
I think you are correct, I think that ring spacer is there to help align the coupling to the gear output coupling. A seal removal tool should pop it out. Yes you could put a strong section of channel across the face and use a large fine thread cap screw and nuts to push it out but using the gear coupling and bolts works better and stays in line with the shaft better.

Walt Hoover
 
Avenger said:
My couplings are different, so please forgive an ignorant question. Is there a chance that ring pulls out of the coupling? Based on the picture, it looks like the ID of the coupling is larger than that ring. It seems odd that they would machine the coupling ID with a step in it.
Click to expand...
There are male and female coupling. That pilot it needed for alignment. It would be great if it popped out, but I don't think it does.
 
sparky66 said:
There are male and female coupling. That pilot it needed for alignment. It would be great if it popped out, but I don't think it does.
Click to expand...

I understand what it's there for. But looking at the step in the ID it appears it's an insert. Probably so they can use the same coupling on both sides with just the ring to locate them instead of different castings/forgings for each side.
 
Avenger said:
I understand what it's there for. But looking at the step in the ID it appears it's an insert. Probably so they can use the same coupling on both sides with just the ring to locate them instead of different castings/forgings for each side.
Click to expand...
It makes sense that the ring pops out. Why(and how) would they machine the access grooves for the cotter pin then put a permanent ring in the way? I'll try to pull it this weekend.
 
The cotter pin goes in through a hole to the outside.
 
Boatsb said:
The cotter pin goes in through a hole to the outside.
Click to expand...
Yes, I assumed that, but it seems like the grooves might help to get the end straightened out and get more access to pull it out.
 
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