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Thread: %@#$&*** Cetol!

  1. #1

    %@#$&*** Cetol!

    I've been varnishing the past few days and I've finally attacked the aft deck cabinets that, like a TOTAL fool, I Sikken'sed several years ago. With varnish on everything else - aft deck doors, side deck doors, the cetol looks SO BAD it's hard to even describe.

    So, I have been trying to remove the Cetol. For those of you who may be interested in removing cetol (or even if you're not), it appears to me that the only way is to sand, Sand, SAND! I started with 120 paper, quickly figured out that 120 was much too fine - went to 80, made the same discovery, and ended up with 60! If there was 10 grit, I'd use it! I'm hoping to get all the cetol off tomorrow and get the first coat of varnish - Epifanes - on the cabinets. Once that's done, I still have PO cetol to remove from the rails and the ladders to the flybridge and to the swim platform. I thought I might be able to deal with the cetol in these areas but the varnish makes the cetol look unbelievably bad (I know I'm repeating myself).

    And Angela - I've been busy breathing sanding dust but I WILL get those a/c controls in the mail tomorrow!
    Last edited by MikeP; 09-17-2007 at 04:17 PM. Reason: add info

  2. #2

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    And I've been breathing "Bristol Finish" fumes. LOL I think I have gotten all of the Cetol off my boat - you are correct...sand, sand, sand.

    Someone on here once characterized Cetol as "the spawn of the devil." Now, you know why.

    Having just installed a new ice maker on my aft deck, I sat down for a breather and just looked at the whole bar cabinetry and thought...Man, that's ugly. I think I may have some more sanding to do. I'm not sure it's Cetol as much as it was just a sloppy job of whatever is on there.

    There was a can of Cetol on my boat when I bought her. I gave it away.
    Ang
    1980 58MY "Sanctuary"
    www.sanctuarycharteryacht.com

  3. #3

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    You need to be careful sanding finishes off of wood. You loose material and definition as well, IE edges etc. I take a beater wood chisel and make it hot with a torch and find the "sweet spot" by back scraping it. Sometimes as much as 20 -30 lbs of pressure is needed! Dont push into it or you are sure to cut into it and lift a chunk or strip of wood off. My 110 volt heat gun works real well as well. Dont use a flame or youll really burn the wood. The gun may darken a spot or two, but that will sand off. That will only be one dermal layer of wood.
    On my handrails, they were done with some kind of catylized stuff and required "shoe shining" with a 2 foot long strip of #24 emery cloth from a roll. Even then after about 90% I had to resort to electric sanding with 120 then 180. The sun seems to work well on the frost! Brrr! ws
    Last edited by yachtsmanbill; 09-30-2007 at 09:51 AM.

  4. #4

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    Here's a pic showing the varnished aft deck doors and the Cetol'ed cabinet. Note that exactly the same veneer is used in the cabinet door as in the aft deck door. The cetol just looks like a dull wash over the wood grain. What total Cr@p!
    Attached Images

  5. #5

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    Angela,

    How do you like using Bristol as compared to regular varnish? I need to prepare my bright work for the tough NJ winter and am considering Bristol over the existing Interlux #95. Good idea or bad? Advice anyone.......

    Walt

  6. #6

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    Quote Originally Posted by Walter P View Post
    Angela,

    How do you like using Bristol as compared to regular varnish? I need to prepare my bright work for the tough NJ winter and am considering Bristol over the existing Interlux #95. Good idea or bad? Advice anyone.......

    Walt
    So far, I like it. I've done my handrails in it, some teak trim on the flybridge and my boat hook. I like that you can layer it every 1 1/2 to 2 hours (wet on wet coats), and you can continue the next day if you start before it's been 24 hours since the last coat. Then, sand once before your final coat to get out any imperfections (runs, cat hair, bubbles, and bugs!) left behind. It does need several layers to stand up to the harsh Florida sun, and I'm trying to extend that life with the hand rail covers I made. It has that glossy wet look when cured. The ugly about it is the fumes which is no big deal if you're doing stuff outside. First time I used it, I opened the can and mixed it on my galley countertop. The fumes are quick to stink up the boat! I did a few pieces inside yesterday due to the threat of rain, and the fumes were killer - had to close off the lower level and the salon, then open the pilothouse doors, and run the fan. I had set up my work space in the PH. Another enemy to young, uncured Bristol (less than 24 hours old) is dew. I had dew form one morning on my handrail that I had done the day before. After a few days, it became very dull, murky and slightly rough. I sanded it down and put on another layer and the beautiful finish came right back and it's still there. Another down side is that this stuff is expensive at around $50/quart.

    TIP: Store the catalyst in the refrigerator. After opening if left in a warm place on the boat it will solidify leaving you with a bunch of useless "other part" and it's too expensive to waste like that.

    I mix it up at a half a cup at a time - it goes a long way. In between coatings during the day, I cover it and put it in the refrigerator to extend my working time. The pot life is a few hours long anyway. Bristol can also be applied over existing varnish so long as it is well adhered. The biggest drawback to Bristol, in my opinion, is the cost.
    Ang
    1980 58MY "Sanctuary"
    www.sanctuarycharteryacht.com

  7. #7

    Cool Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    MikeP, I have the twin bar to yours (as most of us do) on my 1965 motoryacht. Over ten years ago I stripped it and put on two coats of clear sealer then a bunch of coats of Interlux #60 Hand Rubbed Effect Varnish. What a difference. Just like your doors.

    I'll tell ya, no stain is needed on this Hatt woodwork!

    K

  8. #8

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    I thought about Bristol two years ago but I did a seach..."Bristol Finish" + complaints

    There are just too many complaints about it for me to consider. I've finally figured out that there is a good reason varnish has been around for over 100 years...

  9. #9

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    Cetol is soft try a carbide scraper ( Home Depot) forget the old red devil scrapers it's got to be carbide you will be amazed how quick and easy it is. If you want to soften it The purple degreaser will do that. Cetol is very easy to remove but sanding it is not the way to go it's to soft.

    Brian

  10. #10

    Re: %@#$&*** Cetol!

    I don't know about Cetol, but the heat gun does work well on old varnish. Yachtsmanbill is right that you can get into trouble with sanding. Be especially careful on the veneered panels as you can easily go right through them.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

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