Outback 32V Inverter/Charger

[jcrlaw]

My Heart 32V inverter/charger decided to retire last week and cannot be convinced to return to service. I was about to purchase Newmar's 32-2400 when I discovered Outback Inverters. I spoke to them last week and, at least over the phone, it sounds like a fine product. Additionally, it is sealed and less money. Does anyone have an Outback product and can you provide with me with any pros and cons? Thanks.

[SKYCHENEY]

I bought a 3232 but have yet to hook it up. That WILL happen in about two weeks. MikeP has one as well, and someone else, but I can't remember who. I'm sure they can let you know how they like them.

[Brian Degulis]

I Installed an Outback 3232 a few weeks ago in our 61'MY. Works good all the parameters are adjustable like float and bulk charge rate equalize rate and time. They make one that's sealed primarily for outdoor use I got the mobile vented fan cooled model it has more output. You will proubably want to get the "Mate" remote control and readout I think that's only way to adjust the settings without it you might be stuck with factory defaults and no way to know what it's doing.

Brian

[MikeP]

Walk, don't run to your nearest Outback inverter store (or surf there on the web) and buy the 3232. It's a superb unit and very efficient.

I installed it in our 53 early last season I was frankly astounded at how efficient it was. I have the oem batt banks in our 53MY with "ordinary" 8V batteries installed by the PO - they are NOT Rolls/Surettes by any means.

I have it currently set up to run the fridge, tv's, stereo, microwave, hair dryer and a few outlets for whatever you want to plug in. It runs this load for 24 hours - and we're not trying to conserve - and the batt bank will still start the 8v71Ti with no trouble. The boat was out of the water for bottom painting for 2 days and the inverter kept the fridge going the entire time and the batts started the engine. It's obviously a very well designed and efficient unit. It's also very well-made and heavy! I installed it in the genny room of our 53 so it is right next to the batt banks.

I heartily recommend it and frankly think it is the ONLY inverter that should be considered for one of these boats. Yes, I think it's that good. No, I have nothing to do with Outback, I bought one after much searching among inverters and much discussion on this and other forums. Incidentally, some of the best info/discussion on inverters is on solar power and other remote-power web sites.

I bought mine after Sky bought his but I won the "who will install first" race and all the associated prizes and privileges that go with it!

[REBrueckner]

Don't know the brand but be sure it's for "marine" use....especially connecting neutral and ground during use....This could be an insurance claim/coverage issue if that unfortunate circumstance arises.

[Brian Degulis]

Yes It's a marine unit with neutral switching.

Brian

[LIBERTY]

I am the "someone else" who has the Outback 3232. Ditto MikeP's comments. The control panel is a "must" and a detailed info on the voltages of the various stages particular to your batteries (Rolls was very helpful providing this info for my batteries.). I wired mine into the main panel through one of the 50A120 shore power circuits I was not using so I can power any circuit on the boat. Needless to say, I flag the battery charger, hot water heater and AC units so I can turn them off before shifting to inverter as I would overwhelm the units 3200w capacity.

[SKYCHENEY]

I just ordered a new power selector from Sams. This will replace the generator breaker on the main panel, so I can either select genny or inverter. It should fit right in and look OEM since it is an original Airpax setup. I will then be able to power all circuits, but as Liberty stated, certain items will have to remain off so as not to draw too much.

[REBrueckner]

While I personally understand using a smaller inverter than could handle all loads (if connected) I very much doubt that a surveyor would "pass" such an arrangement.

It's like having a 100 amp main breaker with 150 amps of appliances in the panel ....or 15KW of loads and only a 10KW genny. No boat manufacturer engineers electrical circuits that way! The other issue is of course insurance: It's also hard to imagine an insurance company would find such inherently possible overloads acceptable....or make payment in the event of a claim.

It's just not a responsible way to go. You just can't trust others to be as responsible as those on this forum.

[SKYCHENEY]

If the main breaker from the inverter is of acceptable size (30amp), then I can't see how the potential to overload is a problem. If someone turns on too many loads, the input breaker will trip. If that is defective, then the internal workings of the inverter will fault and shut down. There's your backup. Plus, each individual circuit still has it's own breaker and the wire sizes are all overkill. What am I missing? There is no backfeed potential this way since the switch gear is of the lockout type.

Right now I can potentially run the boat on a one 50a 120v cord. This will supply all circuits, but is not sufficient to run all loads. Or, I can run one 50amp 240v cord which is still not sufficient, or I can run 2 50a 240v cords. The 2 cords or the genny are the only sources that will handle all loads, yet the other options are available. How is this any different than a 30amp inverter?