New Hatt guy, please help id some things

[rswirtz]

Hi Hatt folks, we have finally closed on a boat that I hope is a great future for us. Anyway, the guy we bought this from was not familiar with most of the systems and there are 3 items that I have no clue of. This is a 1973, 38 FBDC. Can any of you id these photos, tell me what they are and any tips associated with them? Thanks, Proud and Anxious new owner.

[rswirtz]

This is a 1973, 38' FBDC.... Thanks for any help, Rick

[yachtsmanbill]

1. parallel switch
2.antique engine synchroscope ( probably NG)
3. Alarm panel (probably NG)
The parallel switch allows you to put both banks of batteries together to start, if the starting bank is dead or low. Its energized from either good battery to close the switch. After starting, release and the switch opens. If the one bank is so low that the ignition will not keep the engine running, hold it for a while until the alternator charges enough to support that system. This also works if the pump battery is DOA. Hold on long enough to pump out the bilge. The paralleling solenoid is like a Ford starter unit but way bigger and 100% duty cycle except for momentary starter load. ws

[spartonboat1]

Two sures, one guess:
Pic 1) Battery parallel selector that allows using both sets of batts to start either the Port or Stbd engine, i.e. "parallel",
Pic 2) Maybe an old engine synchronizer- had two blinking lights, one per engine, side by side in same window/eye. When light was steady, then both lights were blinking at same rate and engines were in synch;
Pic 3) Oil Pressure and Engine Temp alarms: when all switches are up and engines are off, should "buzz" and light up for low oil pressure; When engines are operating and all switches are up, then should buzz and light up only when oil press low, or engines hot Four lights: Pt oil press, Pt hi temp, Stbd Oil press, Stbd Hi Temp. . Also, the black pointer is rotated around to "test" each function separately: Pt oil, Pt temp, Stbd Oil, Stbd Temp. Truth be know, may or may not work. Will need to test it.

[TedZ]

On the warning panel there is nothing that can be broken that cannot be fixed easily. The "buzzer" is a relay wired to chatter when energized. If you follow the wiring there it is simple. The senders are those that "make" when a certain temperature or pressure is reached. All off-the-shelf items.

The switches are bullet proof but easily replacable if bad.

Ted

[Bill Allen]

Ditto on the first it's your parell switch, operates a solinoid in the engine room. Second item don't know. Third item engine alarm. I replaced my rattler with a screamer alarm and replaced a sender or two. Sucked mud in georgia alarm went off, probally saved me a motor. Fix it if it's broken very easy, old tech. And a lifesaver if you need it. The switchs function as a test to see if everything is working. Bill

[REBrueckner]

First is definitely battery parallel switch. It activates solenoid(s) in your engine room attached to battery cables. To test: put one person in engine room, another to flip the momentary toggle swith...listen for click click of the solenoid...No sound? remove togle switch and see if you have battery volt there...On my boat,at purchase, the toggle switch was bad...

Third engine and or genny alarm probably engine(s)...needs to be labelled for each lamp indicator. Remove bulbs and test to see if ok...then trace color coded wires back to source(s) or remove panel and inspect back. Could be oil press, water temp, one for each engine. If relay, apply batt voltage to panel back and see if buzzer sounds....what is power source?,,,,ignition switch(es)?? etc,etc...takes a long time to figure out stuff when not labelled!!!

Also, can try Hatteras for wiring diagram if original eqpt...my alarm system was NOT original, company still in business but no longer makes any alarm panels...

[Genesis]

Yeah, you already got the answers BTW that alarm panel is not original.

You might want to replace that with the Aqualarm one. It works and is quite functional - they make a "large" one that will monitor all the important points for you.

[Bill Allen]

Karl mine has the same panel for the alarm. It wasn't a hatt part? Bill

[mgernes]

When you install the Aqualarm, does it require pulling all new wire, and adding new sensors, or are you able to use the wire and sensors in in place and simply install the monitor panel? I have a similar looking panel on my 53MY and have tested the swithches but feel like it may be a little old and tired.

Marcus
Beachhouse