HELP with bleeding

[nyrussell]

Hello,

this is scott prosser with the 1970 53 MY...I bumped into noel and am using his computer. I have recently posted about my power steering unit...it is the precursor to hynautic. well, i received it back from having it rebuilt and have reinstalled it but can't figure out where I bleed system at. the guy that rebuilt for me said I should be looking for an aluminum block that has two screws on it which I loosen and then do the steering / autopilot process, then tighten the screws and done. He said this block would likely be located by the rudders in the stern. I have looked everywhere and found only an old (large) valve. Does anyone know what I'm looking for and where to find it...or another way to bleed the system? thanks!!! I'm supposed to leave for my big trip in morning so I gotta get this done tonight.

best,
Scott

[nyrussell]

The resevoir is one which has two lines coming out of bottom (not 5), if that is helpful

[Captned]

Interesting header on this post... Made me look!

[TedZ]

Hi,

I have a reservoir with a pressure gage on it on the aft engine room wall. It soulds like we have a different system despite the boats being about the same vintage.

Nothing in the Hatteras owner's manual??

Ted

[GOLE IV]

The block or valve should be close to the hydraulic cylinder or actuator. Should have to lines coming from the reservoir or steering wheels, etc and two lines going into the cylinder.

Don't have the manual with me now, but did this task once on my 45C. Once you add liquid and pressure to the reservoir. open the valve on the block. Then turn the wheels several times in both directions, this will force the air into the reservoir. No need to bleed of liquid outside the system.

If you have two station, I think you need to do it first on the lower station but not sure. Then add more fluid as needed.

good luck

[jim rosenthal]

Yes, you do it first on the lower and then the upper. Good luck with this. There's nothing quite as frantic as having to get something done before leaving on a boat trip.

[MikeP]

If you have a pressurized reservoir, and it works like the hynautic system, you don't necessarily have to bleed anything at all although it's faster to fill the system if you do. Your disassembled pump is a piston pump, just like a hynautic H-20 so it shold function exactly the same way. Don't know if it will help but the Hynautic instructions are here: (go down to "purging instructions")

http://www.fishing-catalog.com/hynau...utic_intro.htm

[Fanfare]

I hate to wing it like this, but I'm 1000 miles from my boat and can't look. And I'm driving back to St Louis at 4 am, so won't have much internet service. So it's send this or nothing. Apologies if I miss something.

My 1965 Hynautic steering pumps were green. There is a pressure resevoir in the engine room for keeping the system full of fluid, plus the pressure keeps dirt out of the lines. At the stern of my boat is another unit, which I think is also green. It is mounted just in front of the steering ram on the bulkhead. It is right behind where the pillow of the pt. master berth is. Since my system is #1 they may have changed things on later boats, but this is pretty easy to reach for most purposes, so maybe they all went there. It's an aluminum block with some (3?) metal hydraulic lines running into it. It's 3 or 4 inches long. There is a (green?) dome shaped conical cap which comes off (unscrews I think) to uncover a threaded screw with a screwdriver notch in it. This whole device is a sort of bypass to send oil back through the lines and return to the resevoir to get the air out of the lines. It keeps it from having to go to the rudder ram--just turns it around and back to the resevoir, where the air rises to the top of the resevoir and is replaced by the oil. That is why you have to keep the oil topped up, or air will get back in. There is a lock nut on and below the slotted screw, so loosen this a bit. Then turn the screw to its stop. Be reasonably gentle in order not to damage the valve seats. Then start turning your wheel. I think it turns freely, as the bypass removes hitting the stop of the rudder ram. I think it is a three-hose system, so one is port, one stbd., last is return (not in that order). You have to turn it a LOT to fully circulate the fluid--perhaps 100 complete turns of the wheel, in each direction, but doing 100 in one direction, then 100 opposite. Then, hooray!!, same for the next steering station. Close the little screw valve and practice steering at the dock. If air is in the line, the wheel will just spin or act jerky. Because it can't push the fluid the rudder won't work. So screw around a little before casting off. If the steering does quit, you can usually get a quick squirt from the other steering station, but not much. Best thing is to get the rudders straight, then use engines to steer. Don't forget to tighten up the screw and tighten the lock nut snugly. Replace the cover. Hope you're in business. Good luck!!

If you have an autopilot, its pump must be purged too if it uses the same hydraulic lines. Same procedure, but its motor does the work.

I think I worked from the lowest up on the theory that air will float upwards. Remember that you have to push that fluid from the steering pump all the way to the stern, then forward to the resevoir where it is strained out. That's why all the wheel turning.

In haste,