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  1. #1

    Maxwell windlass install

    I’ll break from my laziness on posting pics and give a decent few on this project. First pic comes with a question. The photo shows the 3/4” windlass lifting block and the 1.5” chain stopper lifting block. This is pretty much all the space I have within the rode locker and the rear most bolt of windlass will be socket width away from bulkhead. Can anyone see an insurmountable problem with having the chain stopper this kissing close to the windlass? The pin is of course removable so the chain can never truly be stuck in the stopper but a hassle at the wrong time could be a real issue. I think it’s unconventional but not problematic. The windlass is a rc12-10 and the stopper is a big ass Maxwell for 3/8. Rode is 50+ feet of 3/8 and the rest 3/4 rope. What’s the photo hack to get it to appear north up so to speak Tried rotating 90* but no joy
    Attached Images

  2. #2

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    2 ideas;
    The level of the chain sprocket to the chain stopper. Straight line or a bend up/down in the chain to make work?

    Does the Maxwell require a chain stopper? Just another piece of hardware in the way.
    When there is a concern, I have always made up a length of lanyard with a safety hook to secure the chain. Un-hook it and it is always out of the way.

  3. #3

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Ralph View Post
    2 ideas;
    The level of the chain sprocket to the chain stopper. Straight line or a bend up/down in the chain to make work?

    Does the Maxwell require a chain stopper? Just another piece of hardware in the way.
    When there is a concern, I have always made up a length of lanyard with a safety hook to secure the chain. Un-hook it and it is always out of the way.
    The lifting blocks align the chainwheel, stopper and roller pretty much exactly. Take out the stopper and the chainwheel and roller are still in excellent alignment. Im going to have to think about eliminating the stopper, that suggestion does seem to keep with the kiss principle.

  4. #4

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    Consider adding a roller forward on the SS pulpit as the chain dragging over the 90 degree transition can cause chain to jump around and then foul in the windlass. Don’t know this because I’m smart. Gnomesayin?😎
    1966 34c
    1982 46 HP

  5. #5

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    I also have a Maxwell it has a stopper built in. I do not use it i use a SS chain hook and line to get the load off the windlass. The close distance your chain stopper has, i guess it will be on the rectangle just forward of the windlass, would be at might make it more difficult to lower the anchor if the windlass failed.
    GLORY Hull # 365
    Northport, NY

  6. #6

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    The easy part is done. Now onto wiring and controls. 00 cable from engine room port main bus.IMG_8961.jpgIMG_8963.jpgIMG_8964.jpg A hand held wifi remote and a digital counter display at lower helm

  7. #7

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    Here's a before pic This is the very start of the lengthy refit. I like to give workers general direction by offering this phrase, top to bottom, front to back, left to right. So I started at the front.
    Attached Images

  8. #8

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    Current core epoxy laminated 3mm okoume staggered joints and clamped by field made J bolts to lower skin. Top skin reused and three layers of 1708 fabric on top of original skin.
    Attached Images

  9. #9

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    "Pretty Work!" as they say in North Cackalacky...
    JD
    1976 58' LRC Hull #311
    "Miss Maggie"
    Riviera Dunes, FL

  10. #10

    Re: Maxwell windlass install

    Windlass wiring is complete. I'd say everyone here can relate to these couple pictures here, where the wire run are just begun. Locker bottom came out, stove came out, reefer came out, locker back came out. all to get the cables from bow to engine room and bridge chase and make sure all was fastened down properly. The wiring consisted of 2/0 for DC+/-, one 18-8 cable for bridge controls, one proprietary cable for bridge controls, and one 14-2 for controls power. Also ran new 12-2 to bridge for docking lamps while there. Total length of run for 2-0 cable is 75'. i arrived at this number from taking length of wire on spools and saving all cut bits and then measureing what was left over on spools. voltage drop comes out to around 6%. Maxwell wanted 1/0 wire for this. I'm happy with this voltage drop allowance. The 12v+/- wires are tied to the engine room forward st'bd buss bars. These buss bars are fed by 4/0 from starter lugs and the buss bars also have the st'bd 160 amp alternator feeding directly. The alternators are 'shut off' from 12v+ by the excite terminal being switched through the secondary filter fuel pressure switch.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by bostonhatteras; 03-03-2024 at 09:12 AM.

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