Galley Maid windlass replacement

[cww]

I don’t know if mine is unique but I have a big nut on the top of the windlass and a big bar to release it for free fall. It is either a Galley Maid or Ideal windlass

They're all like that, the big nut on top of the capstan is attached to a rod that runs down to the clutch for the gypsy. If I go inside and get a socket wrench I can free fall, but who wants to break out the tool kit every time you anchor. That's what that wheel on top is for. The more I think about it, I'd be interested in getting one of those clutch wheels. For what these windlasses cost back when they were new, it seems a little nutty that they didn't just include it to begin with.

[warrenw]

Chris,

I just sent Rick at Galley Maid an e-mail to see if these handwheels are available. I have the bronze socket and bar to loosen the nut but as you said, it would be much nicer not to have to grab the tools (and risk losing them overboard). I expect I will hear back tomorrow.

They're all like that, the big nut on top of the capstan is attached to a rod that runs down to the clutch for the gypsy. If I go inside and get a socket wrench I can free fall, but who wants to break out the tool kit every time you anchor. That's what that wheel on top is for. The more I think about it, I'd be interested in getting one of those clutch wheels. For what these windlasses cost back when they were new, it seems a little nutty that they didn't just include it to begin with.

[cww]

Chris,

I just sent Rick at Galley Maid an e-mail to see if these handwheels are available. I have the bronze socket and bar to loosen the nut but as you said, it would be much nicer not to have to grab the tools (and risk losing them overboard). I expect I will hear back tomorrow.

If it's even semi-reasonably priced, I'd be interested in one as well.

[Pascal]

They're all like that, the big nut on top of the capstan is attached to a rod that runs down to the clutch for the gypsy. If I go inside and get a socket wrench I can free fall, but who wants to break out the tool kit every time you anchor. That's what that wheel on top is for. The more I think about it, I'd be interested in getting one of those clutch wheels. For what these windlasses cost back when they were new, it seems a little nutty that they didn't just include it to begin with.

On the boat I run with a pair of Maxwell hydraulic windlass, I keep the supplied flat bar ( which gets inserted into a slot instead of a nut ) at the bow in case we need to drop and have a hydraulic failure. Easy to have a dedicated wrench for nut on windlasses that use a nut

[Moonhowler]

I don’t understand why it is a two person job. Is it because it is a line and it has to be helped? Or the line - chain splice gets stuck? If you want to raise anchor from the helm all you need is run wires to the solenoid in the anchor locker and ideally use all chain. Or at least enough chain for the conditions you usually anchor in. For instance if you anchor mostly in 10-15’ of water, 100’ chain plus line would work since you ll rarely use the line

There are also wireless remotes you can rig to control the windlass from the helm. you can find bean name wireless like from Lewmar or get cheaper no brand name on Amazon. I ve used them. Works fine and easier than running wires from the bow

The down side of not having someone at the bow is you can’t rinse the chain. Unless you rig an electric valve and a fixed nozzle.

Sorry - nomenclature - what I have is a capstan, not a windlass. If I load it without using the engines to get up on the anchor it blows the fuse. So I am up on the bow, 1 wrap around the capstan, tailing line, calling out to the helm for "bumps" up on the anchor....

[Captain Ralph]

Drum, gypsy, capstan, windlass, sprocket,,, it gets confusing sometimes when we try to communicate.
We had the same drum on a horizontal Ideal. 1 1/4" twisted nylon. 3 wraps and give it tension would pull the boat a good nudge forward, then take up slack till rode was taught, then pull for a moment again, boat goes forward, take up slack.
I would keep doing this till the rode was straight down. Then pull till the anchor came loose or the rode was guitar string tight. Then Josie would bump the clutches to pull the anchor free. then tension and anchor up.
Once that anchor was free, Josie would keep station or back slightly to rinse the anchor on its way up. Then head out of the anchorage as I secured the bow.

Were with all chain and sprocket now. Same drill, bump a foot switch, chain goes tight and then when slack, hold the switch down till tight again.
On those windy days, Josie followed hand signals and bumps the boat up for me. The new windlass will pull but why stress it when just a tap on the clutches may help it last forever.

Oh, we got carried aweigh on hand signals, now we (she) turns the VHF/Loudhailer on and she can hear me whisper. Ya got to check what you say under your breath.....

[Pascal]

It should take a reasonable load without popping the breaker. Usually you can upgrade to a chain gipsy although it’s not cheap as the shaft needs to be replaced. In that case a new windlass may be the best option.

[Moonhowler]

Recommendation for a new one is welcome. This one isn’t fitting our needs. Any thoughts?

[ian w]

Can a horizontal windlass be placed on a Hatteras pulpit

[Captain Ralph]

Can a horizontal windlass be placed on a Hatteras pulpit

Yes. Long bolts or threaded rod with acorn nuts on the top end for finish. Port side gypsy reusing the chain path and locker fall. Filling and finish what was there before can take some time. I assisted on such project many years ago. Pending labor cost may be an important consideration.I remember it was one of the big models with chain to port, line to stb and line on top.