strut surprise

[UNIQUE_NAME]

2 struts holding 1 3/4" shaft.
have the shaft out and when the yard started pulling the cutlass bearings we came across this.

the aft shaft was the normal rubber or whatever it is with a metal shell.
the forward strut had the rubber but a fiberglass shell, not metal.
removed the set screws and broke it up to take it out but its almost like it was glassed in place.
having to sand pieces of the glass inside the strut.

anyone seen something like this before?

[Captain Ralph]

Cutlass bearings come with different sheaths and liners.
I would venture to say somebody had already replaced the bearing(s) before.

So, the big question; What bearing issues are you having?
If one or both bearings have already been replaced and you are replacing them again, maybe worth looking the alignment of the struts over very carefully.

[Boatsb]

Non metallic bearings are used in many applications. Not usually a hatteras but no real harm.

[UNIQUE_NAME]

Cutlass bearings come with different sheaths and liners.
I would venture to say somebody had already replaced the bearing(s) before.

So, the big question; What bearing issues are you having?
If one or both bearings have already been replaced and you are replacing them again, maybe worth looking the alignment of the struts over very carefully.

the problem that was with the shaft log hose.
the shaft and props went to the shop for lookover and with the shaft out the cutlass bearings became a while your there item.
ive owner her for 20+ years, first time im doing bearings. no problems before this but i dont put many hours on her just short trips every weekend.

[Captain Ralph]

A wild (WILD A) guess, only bearing(s) on the shelf THAT day, over 20 years ago.

Next SWAG; a brass sleeve was a sloppy fit over 20 years ago. Somebody floated a synthetic cutlass in?

Tell us how the new bearings fit when re-assembled.

[UNIQUE_NAME]

will do, reassembling in the next couple days

[cww]

How long do cutlass bearings generally last? Mine were causing the shafts to be hard to turn and so are being replaced, and the marina thinks they’re original. I’ve never had to replace them on any other boat before so I guess maybe they last awhile?

[Captain Ralph]

Out of the water for a few minutes, large shafts will be hard to turn.
We used soapy water to lube the shaft/cutlass back up when doing run-out checks on others boats.

We have 2.5" shafts. I replaced only one bearing 16 years ago, the other 3 are the ones on my boat when purchased near 19 years ago.
Out of water survey last October, All was tight.

[cww]

Out of the water for a few minutes, large shafts will be hard to turn.
We used soapy water to lube the shaft/cutlass back up when doing run-out checks on others boats.

We have 2.5" shafts. I replaced only one bearing 16 years ago, the other 3 are the ones on my boat when purchased near 19 years ago.
Out of water survey last October, All was tight.

I'm used to them being a little stiff but I could always move the props by hand on all my other boats, with a little effort. On this boat one shaft wouldn't turn without a pipe wrench, let alone by hand, and the other side wouldn't turn even with the pipe wrench. I was also having problems with stalling when switching gears. They were definitely a problem.

[Captain Ralph]

I'm used to them being a little stiff but I could always move the props by hand on all my other boats, with a little effort. On this boat one shaft wouldn't turn without a pipe wrench, let alone by hand, and the other side wouldn't turn even with the pipe wrench. I was also having problems with stalling when switching gears. They were definitely a problem.

What did the bearings look like when removed, swollen or deformed some way?
How were they removed, shafts pulled and punched out or pressed out with shaft in place?
How did the shafts look at bearing area?
Alignments preformed?

You have my interest up.
rc