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  1. #31

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rosenthal View Post
    Perhaps some builder design a boat without shaft log cutlass bearings? Hard to imagine though; I have never seen a boat built as such. A cutlass bearing in that area to support the shaft and preserve alignment would seem essential. I guess you would just use a smaller diameter sterntube if there was not going to be a cutlass bearing inside it.
    Does yours have cutlass bearings in the shaft log? On my 53 there is a little mini-strut located immediately after the shaft log right where the shaft pops out of the boat. So if there was a boat that didn't need them, it would probably be this one. But I want to know for sure so that if it has one I can make sure it gets replaced. The problem on my boat was bad enough that you can't turn the shafts by hand, one of them you can't even turn with a pipe wrench, and I was having issues with engine stalling when changing gears.

  2. #32

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cww View Post
    Does yours have cutlass bearings in the shaft log? On my 53 there is a little mini-strut located immediately after the shaft log right where the shaft pops out of the boat. So if there was a boat that didn't need them, it would probably be this one. But I want to know for sure so that if it has one I can make sure it gets replaced. The problem on my boat was bad enough that you can't turn the shafts by hand, one of them you can't even turn with a pipe wrench, and I was having issues with engine stalling when changing gears.
    You don't need one there on a 53. The only reason you have three struts is because its a two piece shaft, otherwise, two struts is all that is needed. But, if you can't turn the shaft, you need to check your alignment and no just at the coupling. You need to make sure each strut is aligned right and nothing has moved due to a previous grounding or some other damage. It could also be a bent shaft.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  3. #33

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    I drove over there and it's pretty difficult to see in the hole with the forward shaft still there, but I managed to position my phone camera to where it looked in there, far as I can tell there is no bearing. They already had the stub shafts pulled and the bearings removed from the struts on the port side and I was easily able to spin the shaft by hand. So I think I'm good to go.

    Shaft Log 1.jpg

    Shaft Log 2.jpg
    Last edited by cww; 05-17-2022 at 07:43 PM.

  4. #34

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by SKYCHENEY View Post
    You don't need one there on a 53. The only reason you have three struts is because its a two piece shaft, otherwise, two struts is all that is needed. But, if you can't turn the shaft, you need to check your alignment and no just at the coupling. You need to make sure each strut is aligned right and nothing has moved due to a previous grounding or some other damage. It could also be a bent shaft.
    Ok sweet, then I won't put one in there, less to go wrong and the less drag the better. The alignment was done last time it was out of the water. I forget what they said the spec was but one side was way out, the other side was a little out. They did both sides, and one of the shafts was bent and that got fixed. It made the problem better but not enough to where the shafts weren't still too difficult to turn. I am pretty sure it was the cutlass bearings in the struts, with them removed the shaft turns freely with one hand now. Before it wouldn't turn with a pipe wrench. I am thinking I probably found my missing 150rpm.

  5. #35

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cww View Post
    Ok sweet, then I won't put one in there, less to go wrong and the less drag the better. The alignment was done last time it was out of the water. I forget what they said the spec was but one side was way out, the other side was a little out. They did both sides, and one of the shafts was bent and that got fixed. It made the problem better but not enough to where the shafts weren't still too difficult to turn. I am pretty sure it was the cutlass bearings in the struts, with them removed the shaft turns freely with one hand now. Before it wouldn't turn with a pipe wrench. I am thinking I probably found my missing 150rpm.
    When they were getting ready to install the dripless shaft logs, the shaft was just laying in that opening in the hull. Nothing went there but shaft log inside.

    It feels a bit different around the dock with the shafts loosened up! There's more kick when you pop it into gear, for sure.
    At the mouth of the Caloosahatchee
    1984 52C

  6. #36

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by JuiceClark View Post
    When they were getting ready to install the dripless shaft logs, the shaft was just laying in that opening in the hull. Nothing went there but shaft log inside.It feels a bit different around the dock with the shafts loosened up! There's more kick when you pop it into gear, for sure.
    I just caught your other comment about changing props, what props did you go with? Any performance difference?

  7. #37

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cww View Post
    I just caught your other comment about changing props, what props did you go with? Any performance difference?
    Well, this was a pretty thorough restoration situation. But the PO had already bought new 32x32 4 blade props and they were waiting in the box. The old props were covered in crust and kind of bent looking. lol Honestly, it felt like the old ones weighed half as much as new...were probably under the boat since 1984.

    Anyway, with everything cleaned up, new cutlass bearings and the new props (which are probably just a bit oversized) everything is different. First of all, she pops into gear now with a prop wash behind the transom - used to just slowly start pushing water.
    In canals you can't have both engines in gear for long at idle 550rpm because it moves too fast for tight quarters.

    A couple weeks ago a tech came and tuned the engines. When we took her out to run, he found the tachs are off. The ER tach is reading about 200rpm higher than at the helm. He'll fix that this Summer, but we couldn't get a proper max rpm rating that day.
    So, at 2000rpm (I'm supposing that is really 2200rpm) I glanced at the GPS and it read 21.8 knots. Then, I backed her off to 1800 and it settled in nicely. That seemed great to me, for a boat that had been sitting for years. The black cloud behind the boat after the turbos kicked-in was really something to see.

    Anyway, it's a work in progress and I don't have #s from before - because this boat hasn't been on plane for at least 5 years! But having this girl up running at 20k, after a year of resto weekends, was the best feeling I've had in awhile.
    Last edited by JuiceClark; 05-19-2022 at 08:59 AM.
    At the mouth of the Caloosahatchee
    1984 52C

  8. #38

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Engine room tachs are often mechanical while the ones at the helm stations are electronic. In my experience the only electronic tachs out there which are accurate to any high degree are aetna's. Between the two I would go with the engine room tachs. 2200 is 100rpm shy of what you're supposed to be turning, based on that you would appear to be over-propped.

    Edited: I wrote over and I meant under.
    Last edited by cww; 05-19-2022 at 04:19 PM.

  9. #39

    Re: I've never had a bad cutlass bearing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cww View Post
    Engine room tachs are often mechanical while the ones at the helm stations are electronic. In my experience the only electronic tachs out there which are accurate to any high degree are aetna's. Between the two I would go with the engine room tachs. 2200 is 100rpm shy of what you're supposed to be turning, based on that you would appear to be under-propped.
    True, if that's all she'll do. That day, I just brought it up to 2k and then started checking all the data. It was after I backed down to 1800 the tech informed me that 2k was actually 2,200. With the tanks totally full and the bridge windows on, I was surprised to get RPMs that high after years of sitting. So, I think she'll go higher.

    So, I'll blow them out for a month and then get the survey done...and we'll floor it. Michigan wheel told me they'd suggest 32x30 4 blades for this boat with 650s. So, if I get get her close to 2,300 with these props, I'll be happy. At $6+ per gallon, I won't be up on top very often anyway!
    At the mouth of the Caloosahatchee
    1984 52C

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