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Thread: Advice: Boatyard problem
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
50c-1980-DYLAMAR
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
A few things along the way. Should have started a thread like the roamer refit
50c-1980-DYLAMAR
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
Wow, this really really sucks.
First of all, for all of the tip and roll folks you're just fooling yourselves that it can look as good or close to a proper spray job, especially after some time goes by and the UV gets to it.
How about finding a location that's not at a marina and have the boat moved there to complete the work?
As an example I know a guy that had his 57' custom SF lifted with a crane onto lot he owned on the water to do a similar project to yours using a metal framed temporary tent, even is doing a repower.
Also, what's your plan to get the MAN's started, 4 years is a long time to be sitting idle for any engine. I was looking at a custom boat with 12 cylinder MAN's that had been sitting for 6 or 7 years, had 3 quotes ranging between $28k - $39k to get them started.
Btw, should have bought that thing, boat ended not having as many issues as what I thought.Last edited by Cricket; 09-07-2021 at 01:34 PM.
CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
A friend of mine built an enclosure like that at one of the boat yards in California. Within a few weeks the city came by and told him it was too high and that he had to cut it down so it was no higher than the floor on the flybridge. If not and he kept at the same height he was going to have to get a building permit for $6000 then get it approved. However he would still have to tear down the structure and then rebuild it once he got the permits and plans approved. Needless to say he cut it down and finished all the work.
SEVEN
1979 53' MY Hull #563
Antioch, California
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
Been thinking how to make it work where you are, if that's possible with the marina owner??
If you can get the hull painted before removing the structure you could pad out the winter shrink wrap with 2x4s framed wall anchored with rebar at the bottom and rubber padding against your stainless rubrail (maybe with a some blocks for a little more room)
to keep the plastic off the paint.
For the stern, frame a wall behind the boat rising 6 or 7 feet above the cockpit floor level and then run some framing up to the hardtop and shrink over all of that. It will give you a pretty good work area within you boat's foot print.
Last winter we had our back wall maybe 3 feet behind the boat, other years we've gone 6 or 7 for some extra work space, some years right next to the transom.CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
50c-1980-DYLAMAR
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Re: Advice: Boatyard problem
Great. The 2 times we did really heavy work over the winter we put the foil covered sheets of foam under the shrink over the cockpit area up to the hardtop, made a big difference holding heat in.
Always been a fan of Snow White until recently, now I like Cloud White better. Have 2 boats with Snow topsides and they now look yellowish to me which I know is wrong.
What color are going to use on the hull?
Viking did their summer 80' demo with a dark navy hull instead of grey they've been using the last few years, my guess is that's a signal the grey era is coming to a close.
Be interesting to see what color their winter demo is.
And, we need more photos, apparently you've been holding out on us for years.........Last edited by Cricket; 09-07-2021 at 10:50 PM.
CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E