'THERE IS SMOKE EVERYWHERE!!' not what you want to hear 40mi offshore....

[jim rosenthal]

That totally sucks. Keep us posted.

I have not owned DDs for years, but my understanding was that as far as parts went, it was basically DD on the one hand and "everything else" on the other. With the smart folks using DD genuine spares..

Good luck with this and hope you are back in business soon.

[Dan Mapes]

Out of curiosity do the empty bores of the block have to be measured individually to get the kits correctly sized?

[Eddieclemons]

Its a terrible feeling. Hang in there, stay at when your fresh and walk away when your tired. Redo it as soon as you realize it's not right. You will be cruising and smiling again before you know it with a great sense of pride and satisfaction from your accomplishment.

[rsmith]

Your 92 is a wet liner engine. Most likely they leaked into the oil. I inframed both my 12/71’s myself in 3 weeks but my boat is behind the house and I have a full shop there. I did mine in 02 and at the time Detroit parts quality was turning to crap. I rejected half the reliabuilt injectors as ten tips showed erosion right out of the box. Check with some shops that are actually doing DD’s these days as to who’s making the best quality parts. Key is if the crank is scored. You won’t know that until you pull the rod caps and mains. I just dropped the crank to roll in the bearings. Pulling it out is a whole different story. Get the Detroit manual. READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK. Forget everything you read on boat diesel Internet forums whatever most of it is wrong and BS that people read somewhere and just repeated.

[rustybucket]

Your 92 is a wet liner engine. Most likely they leaked into the oil. I inframed both my 12/71’s myself in 3 weeks but my boat is behind the house and I have a full shop there. I did mine in 02 and at the time Detroit parts quality was turning to crap. I rejected half the reliabuilt injectors as ten tips showed erosion right out of the box. Check with some shops that are actually doing DD’s these days as to who’s making the best quality parts. Key is if the crank is scored. You won’t know that until you pull the rod caps and mains. I just dropped the crank to roll in the bearings. Pulling it out is a whole different story. Get the Detroit manual. READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK READ THE BOOK. Forget everything you read on boat diesel Internet forums whatever most of it is wrong and BS that people read somewhere and just repeated.

I hear ya, I've got the bible (manual) already out and opened. At the same time I know we are dealing with marine and the manual may not always be conclusive. I have a full tuneup kit onboard as well as a small marine diesel (sailboat engines) rebuilding shop up the hill with any/all tools I should need.

All bolts/parts are going into labeled baggies. All fuel ports are closed off with plastic caps on injectors and heads.

The logicstics of storing a bunch of engine parts is about to be upon me. At some point today or tomorrow I'm going to have to get a helper here to help me move some furniture to the storage unit, my L shaped indoor tackle center needs to get out of here to free up some space. I can see early on that organization, cataloging and storage and documentation are going to be keys to the success of this project.

Got the oil pan dropped, exactly 1.2 cunt hairs from clearing for removal. So I've pulled the coupling apart and the top motor mounts are loose, I'm about to start raising the engine enough so that the oil pan clears, hopefully there is enough travel.

Hope to be looking at some main bearings by this afternoon. Any idea how heavy the crank is if it has to come out?

Here are two vendors for kits that have been recommended to me. I've bought a bunch of stuff from Diesel Pro in the past and have always been happy, anyone have any experience with agkits?

https://www.agkits.com/detroit-diese...x#.YRFiHO0pBTY

https://dieselpro.com/detroit-diesel...e-rebuild.html

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

160# according to the diesel pro

[Captain Ralph]

biggest hurdle is going to be handling the heads. May have to rig up some type of rope pulley or lever system. Anyone cracked that nut before, any secrets?

So,.... I guess I need to get a rebuild kit and a gasket kit on order. Anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase those? I want to make certain we get a quality kit and that it is the correct kit for this engine.

Go to Harbor Fright. Pick up a bunch of large moving blankets.
The next time you see a lawn shop mowing yours of a neighbors yard, ask them for their strong backs.

Wrap the heads in large garbage bags, then tightly wrap with a moving blanket. A 1/2" line wrapped around that to make two hoop handles. Those strong backs can move it up to your car or truck.

You want real Detroit liners.
With your serial number and a picture of your piston, go to a real Detroit shop.
Hopefully the same shop that is going to check your heads and replace the injector tubes.

[Cricket]

Rusty, hate this happened for you.
Back when we had the 8v92's and had to do a few rebuilds we always got new heads, not the Reliabuilt ones.

Or, you could just get some CATs to throw in there..............
The CATs will enjoy fishing in those gigantic baitwells.

[rsmith]

The 892 heads are no where near as heavy as the 12/71 heads. Shouldn’t be a problem for 2 guys. Harder when you put them on make some studs to slide it down on so you don’t screw up the gaskets

[Glory]

If you haven't yet figured out if the engine ran backwards, an easy check is to remove an air set and see if there is exhaust carbon on the filter. If there is , carbon, it is a not a good thing.