Railing Refinish

[dottieshusband]

I used an unfamiliar product to refinish my rails last time.. it didn't last. So I'm stripping bare and after the mineral spirits wipe down, they look so good natural, until the mineral spirits evaporate, I'm thinking of just tongue oiling them.. anybody else gone au natural and how'd it work out?

[SKYCHENEY]

Be careful not to get arrested for going au natural

[dottieshusband]

This the front rail with just mineral spirits on it. I read that it was ok to apply epiphanes over tounge oil, so the plan is 3 coats of oil, varnish later or not. PS, the other product lured me in with the no sanding between coats... but basically just started disintegrating with sun exposure. The lee non weather side lost its gloss, but stayed intact.

[Pascal]

Teak oil looks good for a while and then it’s all downhill

Best finish I use in Florida is Awlwood by Awlgrip. It s a one part coating which requires no sanding between coats until the last couple of coats. It performs well in the Florida sun. Only downside is the price at $80 a quart but well worth it

[rwaldrop13]

Teak oil looks good for a while and then it’s all downhill

Best finish I use in Florida is Awlwood by Awlgrip. It s a one part coating which requires no sanding between coats until the last couple of coats. It performs well in the Florida sun. Only downside is the price at $80 a quart but well worth it

Anyone having issues with small gaps where wood is missing? We have a spot on starboard rail about 1/2" long and about 1/8" deep that is an actual gap but no soft spots around it and when tapped with a knife blade, it's solid. It literally looks like a matchstick piece was extracted cleanly out of the railing. Looking for recommendations to fill that spot before refinishing.

[oscarvan]

Anyone having issues with small gaps where wood is missing? We have a spot on starboard rail about 1/2" long and about 1/8" deep that is an actual gap but no soft spots around it and when tapped with a knife blade, it's solid. It literally looks like a matchstick piece was extracted cleanly out of the railing. Looking for recommendations to fill that spot before refinishing.

I make a filler with Gorilla Glue and the sawdust from the wood I'm filling. Been working pretty well. Must say I do that in the "raw" stage before the coats of varnish/oil go on. Probably would work on finished pieces too. May need several thinner applications.

[rwaldrop13]

I make a filler with Gorilla Glue and the sawdust from the wood I'm filling. Been working pretty well. Must say I do that in the "raw" stage before the coats of varnish/oil go on. Probably would work on finished pieces too. May need several thinner applications.

Now that you posted that, I feel stupid... My grandfather built grandfather clocks (yes, he saw the irony) using old mahogany, walnut, or cherry store display cases he would pick up often for simply hauling it away when small stores in downtown Nashville were closing. He used to show me that trick using Elmer's wood glue and carefully sifted powdered sawdust to fill seams before finishing the clock panels.

Thanks!

[dottieshusband]

Be careful not to get arrested for going au natural

I'm sure it will be handled as a very very small misdemeanor!

[dottieshusband]

Is Alwood a paint or clear coat type product? I'm open to try something different (except Total Boat varnish)

[Pascal]

Unlike Cetol it s a clear. You first apply a primer and then the Awlwood gloss. In addition to not having to sand between coat you can recoat in as little as 2 hours.