Yep, exactly. The clamps will most often have rust on their bottoms. If it wipes off, good. Use a soft brush and get the corresponding deposits off the bellows too. If the clamp's pitted (even lightly), replace and use that clamp for a less critical area or save as a spare. Again, if you clean the area well and use a corrosion inhibitor, you'll get indefinite use from the clamps. Another example: I just pulled eight 10" exhaust clamps while I was working close by. I know it's been a year. Still only a couple showed superficial corrosion; they were previously sprayed with inhibitor.
Having had a trip delayed for two days in '17 because of a coolant clamp letting go, no clamps go anywhere on Aslan unless they get a shot of corrosion inhibitor. It's no trouble once the routine is established.
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Thread: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
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Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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01-13-2021 06:46 PM #12
Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
Speaking of clamps, I found two like this on my exhaust the other day. I am amazed that I'm still finding stuff like this.
Clamps.jpgRobert
MANCHIONEAL
1973 43DC #365
Mattox Creek, VA
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Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
I have not replaced the bellows on mine. I inspect them annually looking for any deterioration or cracking and have found none. The clamps looks good as well but I'm in fresh water.
Sky Cheney
1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI
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01-13-2021 07:53 PM #14Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Posts
- 414
Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
What kind/name rust inhibitor ?
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01-13-2021 07:54 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2018
- Posts
- 1,069
Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
"I have not replaced the bellows on mine. I inspect them annually looking for any deterioration or cracking and have found none. The clamps looks good as well but I'm in fresh water."
I like this answer.Prometheus
1978 53' MY Hull #529
Viera, FL
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Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
Boeshield T9 works.
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
This thread got my attention because my PSS is 8 years old and I think it is time to replace the bellows.
It was all apart, so I replaced the whole thing anyway. I went through the entire driveline at the same time, cutlass bearings, shaft check, prop scan, etc.
And I agree MAINTAIN THE CLAMPS!!!"The older I get, the faster I was......."
1979 60C "Ohana" hull# 331
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01-14-2021 04:36 AM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2018
- Posts
- 1,069
Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
Thanks for the replies. If I were to replace them on my next haul out (which is now for a bottom paint), what is involved?
I assume that you unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission and then slide the shaft and coupling aft enough to allow the bellows to be removed. How do you secure the shaft so that it doesn't just slide out of the boat due to gravity? Or is that not possible? Next, I know that the coupling is keyed to the shaft, how do you detach it from the shaft? Does it slide aft on the shaft and then you remove the key and then slide it forward off the shaft? Also, how stubborn are these steps? How hard is it to slide the shaft aft and how hard is it to remove the coupling from the shaft? After that, the process of removing and reinstalling the new bellows etc. seems relatively easy.Prometheus
1978 53' MY Hull #529
Viera, FL
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01-14-2021 09:12 AM #19
Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
It's not easy at all.
Most shafts are tapered and the coupler is on like a prop. Smaller may be straight but still hard to pull apart. There's little space to work in and usually rusty bolts and parts.
Installing the new dripless require a perfect surface on the shaft so if it's worn you have a problem with the seal being torn up.
It's a pretty big job especially if your only doing the seals. Do all the bearings and any shaft work you will need at the same time.Scott
41C117 "Hattatude"
Port Canaveral Florida.
Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.
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Re: PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED
Coupling is on a tapered shaft like your prop. After you remove the nut, you need to put something on the end of that shaft and re-tighten it to the transmission to push the shaft out of the coupling. I used a socket for that last time I did it, but you can also use a puller instead. Its not difficult but they can be stubborn.
The shaft won't fall out if the prop is still on there because it will hit the rudder.Last edited by SKYCHENEY; 01-14-2021 at 05:33 PM.
Sky Cheney
1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI