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  1. #1

    Stanchion Backing Plates?

    Can anyone tell me if the 1973 38' FBDC has a backing plate for the stanchion bolts, or are there nuts that I must hold in order to remove them ... certainly hope not!

  2. #2

    Re: Stanchion Backing Plates?

    I cannot say as my boat is a 83 model year . My plates are aluminum which can corrode. Back the stanchion screws out slowly, turning back and forth as you would if cutting threads . The backing plates can be cut out and replaced , but what a job . Good luck!
    JMooney
    61 MY 1983 #341
    “Jerrie”
    Miami , FL

  3. #3

    Re: Stanchion Backing Plates?

    My understanding is there is a aluminum plate embedded in the fiberglass. I’ve taken my stanchions completely off to polish them and replace the screws with new square headed screws. I didn’t have any issues with this project. I did put a compound on the screw threads to prevent electrolyzes between the SS screws and aluminum plate that’s embedded in the toe rail.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  4. #4

    Re: Stanchion Backing Plates?

    Tefgel works well to prevent corrosion on the threads.
    JMooney
    61 MY 1983 #341
    “Jerrie”
    Miami , FL

  5. #5

    Re: Stanchion Backing Plates?

    Quote Originally Posted by jmooney View Post
    Tefgel works well to prevent corrosion on the threads.
    That’s the one I used. I couldn’t remember the name. FYI use just a little. That crap wicks up to the base of the screws and bleeds out during hot weather. It’s been 3 years and I’m still wiping it off. And I didn’t use that much.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  6. #6

    Re: Stanchion Backing Plates?

    Thanks for the comments.
    YouTube has a video showing that one can drill the bolt hole larger, then fill it with epoxy with the bolt in place. It says the bolt can then re unscrewed after it is hard and it makes a good secure fastening. May give that a try after I can remove the bolts, which may be the biggest challenge.

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