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  1. #1
    Jaxfishgyd Guest

    Preparing the hull for painting

    Will be hauling my 43' Hatteras DCMY within the next few weeks to be painted. We will be preparing it and had planned on sanding it and then roll and tip painting 0 it.
    The previous owner had an " $99 Maco paint special" job done and it shows. Plus he painted it white instead of the Hatteras off white. And it is in terrible condition with cracking and blistering.
    I tried to sand a small section over the weekend using a commercial hand sander with 60 grit paper and it took me 20 mins and 2 pads just to do a one sq ft area.
    Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to make it easier? It will take a long time, a LONG TIME to sand the entire hull if what I did this past weekend is any indication.

  2. #2
    DeeRow Guest
    I read an article in a magazine (that I can't find!) about soda blasting. I searched for it on google and found this link www.soda-blast.com/. Unfortunately, they are on the west coast (of the US, not FL). It uses baking soda to remove paint. Since baking soda is softer than sand, they claim that they can remove one layer of paint and leave a layer of paint underneath untouched. The article said that it would cost $20 - $25 per foot to do a boat. Here is another linkwww.watersolubleabrasive.com. I also found a "water blaster" in the Martin County yellow pages (Stuart, FL) under sand blaster. I have no idea how well this stuff works. If you try it, let us know.

  3. #3
    DaveP3 Guest

    Prep

    I am not sure anything short of sandblasting the whole hull is faster than sanding. I know what you are going thru, we took done our whole hull (above the water line) three years ago. What a job!!! Three of us with commercial orbital sanders and blocks and it took 5 weekends (2 days each, 8hrs a day) to get it done. Even then the yard had to fair some of it to get it perfect. We were so beat I paid the yard to Awlgrip it, and I'm glad we did, three years later and it looks better than ever.

    You may want to try a commercial stripper, although that will probably take it right down to the gelcoat. You'd have to be careful with it, but it may be a lot easier than sanding. Some people I know used stripper and left it on too long and it messed up the fiberglass itself and then they ended up have to pay to have that repaired. So take your choice, lots of hard work or find someone who's used stripper and get them to help you.

  4. #4
    prosmanuafamilynet Guest

    Sanding the hull

    A difficult and dirty job at best. No other way to describe it! Put on Tyvec disposable coveralls, stocking hat, goggles, respirators (3M). Get a good Body Grinder(Milwaukee), lots of 8 inch 60 grit disks, (3M). Use the edge of the disk grinder to throw the paint debris to the ground in a sort of stream coming off the disk, (You will get the hang of it pretty quick). Your arms /shoulders will be in great shape when you are done. Then go to lighter grits with DA sanders. Stay clear of the gel coat, fair what is necessary, etc, etc wipe down carefully, seal (epoxy type barrier x 2 or 3), paint. Stand back,... Take a look, ..........Enjoy your efforts..... Take a nap. Best of wishes, KTM

  5. #5
    Jaxfishgyd Guest

    Hull sanding

    Yesterday I made the final preparations for having our Hatteras hauled out on Friday May 7th in St Augustine. When I returned, I AGAIN tried to sand a small area of the hull and,YIKES, it sanded easily.
    I was able to sand a 2'X2' area in less than 2 mins and it required no hassle on my part.
    The only difference between this attempt and my last attempt was.... I bought a new sander. My old one is just a basic Black & Decker and has done a great job on the wood handrails and the like.
    Knowing I would need a 2nd sander, I went to Lowes and bought a heavy duty DeWalt one. Needless to say, you get what you pay for.
    The job will still not be "fun" but least I now know it's "doable".

  6. #6
    jim rosenthal Guest

    good for you!

    ...a happy ending, or at least a less sad one...you don't hear that too much in boat refinishing projects.
    A few years ago I was building a deck/porch on my house and bought a brand new B&D 12v drill. It died halfway through the job. I took it back and bought a Porter-Cable. I still have it and it works perfectly. I also have several hundred dollars worth of other P-C tools. One lesson I learned well.

  7. #7
    Jaxfishgyd Guest

    It's done

    It took 17 days,but the boat hull is now done.
    I spent 10 days sanding, the people at St Augustine Marine figured out the last owner used HOUSE PAINT when he painted her !!! The paint was 1/8th to 1/4th thick, badly cracked and had to be taken all the way down to the original hull.
    "The Admiral" helped me 6 days and I had 2 friends help me one day. Went thru a LOT of sandpaper but finally got her ready to paint.
    Put 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of Awlgrip on her (back to the Hatteras off white) and though it will never be mistaken for a pure professional job, it passes everyone's evaluation.
    The best part is, my total costs including the marina was only $2600. The cheapest estimate I had gotten was $18,000 from the local marinas, with one goint $26,000.
    And my costs included me putting on 3 coats of Micron CSC bottom paint !!
    Now it's time for me to go back to work where I can rest up !!!!!!

  8. #8
    agostig Guest

    Is there light at the end of the tunnel?

    I've just started preparing my 1964 34' sedan for an Awlgrip roll ad tip refinish. I'm curious to know anyone's thoughts on how soon after painting can the boat be launched without any abrasion marks from the travel lift's straps?
    I could also use any tips as far as rolling and tipping.

    Any words of encouragement? This seems to be a very long process and the weather here in the northeast has not been cooperating much!>:
    thanks, Gerry

  9. #9
    NANPO 41 Guest

    Travel Lift Straps

    Gerry,
    You shouldn't get any marks on the hull because the straps should rest on the metal rub rail fwd and the spray rails and rub rail aft. If you have removed the spray rails then the after strap will rest hard against the hull. If that is the case then you should contact the manufacturer directly for the appropriate drying time. There are a number of different reducers available and they all affect the drying time.
    Where in the N.E. are you located? We are in Boston and I don't think the rain will ever stop long enough to finish getting the boat ready to splash.
    Good Luck with the paint job
    Fred

  10. #10
    Jaxfishgyd Guest

    Lift straps

    I rolled the paint on. Did NOT have to tip it due to the new style of rollers out (called donuts).
    We put the 3rd coat of paint on Saturday, finishing up about 1:00pm and was launched at 9:30am Monday morning. No problem at all.
    Course our weather was in the high 80's, low humidity with a nice breeze the entire 17 days were were "on the hill".

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