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  1. #11
    Genesis Guest

    BTW...

    ... there are a whole bunch of other relatively easy things you can do with these engines that will make a major positive difference in how long they last.

    Let me know if you'd like the list. I own a pair and have made all of these changes myself.

  2. #12
    captcoop Guest

    43C

    I have a 45C with this same engine/prop combo. I don't have a problem turning 2350rpm. I would say spend the prop money on a tune up. You most likely have one or two bad injectors. I have had new one's bad when installed. A tune up by a Detroit Dealer will cost less than new props. Good Luck

  3. #13
    Patience Guest

    modification list

    Genesis,

    I have a 1990 52c with 892's. Would your modification list apply to these engines as well. If so, would you mind emailing it to me?

    parkerhuddle@comcast.net

  4. #14
    Genesis Guest

    Yes....

    .... The most important ones are, in order:

    1. Remove the airbox drain connection to the crankcase. Route them to a crap can or, if your engines run relatively clean, to a bilge diaper in the pan under the engine. A stuck airbox drain check valve can cause (indrectly, if you have Airseps) a runaway and will trash your oil, which of course is real good for the mains. On the "V" series engines one of the check valves is behind the starter and extremely difficult to get to. Get it outta there and route the connections where you can access them easily. It is CRITICAL that the airbox check valves close when under power. You need easy access to them to do maintenance, and they're a bitch to get to where they are as delivered. These need to be cleaned on every oil change, and replaced if they will not seal. You simply have to put them where they can be accessed easily for decent engine life. Detroit routed them to the pan because people complained that their engines were "dirty", and further, if they went to a crap can then that was another maintenance item to look after - so they ran 'em back to the crankcase. In short, convenience over proper engineering and maintenance.

    2. Ditto on the returns from the Walker airseps if you have them. Returning that garbage to the crankcase is not a good idea. Worse, if THAT check valve sticks open, you risk a runaway as oil will be sucked right into the intake! Second, regularly inspect the vacuum limiters on those airsep systems. A frequent cause of turbo damage and aftercooler plugging is oil pull-over from an Airsep that is not properly limiting crankcase vacuum. Even better, ditch the airseps and get a set of Racor CCVs instead. While their return is supposed to route back to the crankcase, and its less of a problem due to the way their system is designed than with Racor's, I wouldn't do it with theirs either.

    3. Make VERY SURE you have no exhaust leaks. They are deadly to Detroits.

    4. If you're willing to spend a bit of money, install a step-up blower drive gear. This will significantly improve ventilation of the engine and reduce EGTs. The gear is about $100, and requires recalibration of the tune-up (it will change the governor speed, thus requiring a reset of the no-load, and that requires a reset of the entire tune-up. Don't go too far with this (the "more is better" argument does not apply completely here), or you can make it impossible to get the governor back in sync.

    5. Remember that the aftercooler is UNDER the blower and requires service every 2-3 years in most boats. Its a pain in the butt to get out; pulling and replacing it is a two man-day job, since you need a full tune-up (as the governor comes off with the blower, and you have to disconnect it and thus the tune now must be re-done), plus you have to drain the cooling system, but if its plugged you will see high engine temperatures and poor performance. The way to know what's going on with it is to take airbox pressure readings plus airhorn pressure readings. If the airbox pressure is equal to the airhorn when on boost, its partially plugged (it should be greater, but only by 1-2 psi.) If the airbox pressure is LOWER, service is required. Don't ignore this one.

    6. NEVER shut down hot. It only takes once to start the process of self-destruction on a turbo. Also, don't do "slam the throttles" holeshots. Ease her up and ease her down instead. Your engines will thank you for that.

  5. #15
    mikfinf16 Guest

    6v92 mods

    George,

    I have old (1978) Covington twin dry turbo 425 HP 692's in my '73 45C. Are you aware of any ways to increase HP on there engines?

    Thanks

    Mick

  6. #16
    Genesis Guest

    Yes, but...

    ... don't. Service life will suffer. At 425HP you have some sweet motors that will run 3000+ hours with proper maintenance. Go to 500HP, you cut your life to 1500-2000 hours between overhauls with proper maintenance and increase the stress and thus decrease service life on everything.

    If you're hell-bent on ignoring me, you can go to 500Hp pretty easily with bigger injectors (7045s). Make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. I'd also install step-up blower gearing to insure enough airflow. This is the setup that I have, and while I CAN go further, I'm not about to. You need to make sure you have marine heads though, or you'll eat the valves doing this.

    Beyond 500HP you need advanced timing and a bypass blower (to get to 550HP). That too can be done, but I wouldn't. This step is, IMHO, not worth it, as you are getting dangerously close to "hand grenade with loose pin" territory.

    550 is "end of the line" for non-electronic engines, and IMHO its beyond safe limits.

  7. #17
    George Guest

    High performance 45

    Mick,
    Genesis is king here and there is some good advice on other engine web sites such as Boatdiesel.com. I sold my 550 HP 6V92's to a guy with your engines. He took off my air systems and cooling systems and refit onto his boat. He spent considerable $'s and frankly speaking, did not give me the impression he was over elated with the outcome. I just repowered with Cat C-12 and cruise comfortably at 1900 rpm doing 28 Kts. Huge investment which not all people are willing to do. The Covingtons are tricky to convert, and in my experience was not really worth the pain of knowing to well, and swallowing of a cylinder 70 miles off. In my mind, if you really want to go faster, more reliably, consider factory rebuilts with warantee's as a cheaper way to go. You've got plenty of engine room space, but your going to find, on the older 45's that your shaft angle is going to prohibit you from wheeling to meet the desired HP.
    Good luck.

  8. #18
    436506 Guest

    Old 6v92 Mods

    Guys,

    Thanks for the sage words. With the price of fuel maybe I'll spend more time trolling than going.

    I talked to Daniel at PC Industries, i.e. www.powerlinecomponents.com and he offered to rebuild my engines to specs at $8800 a piece or exchange long blocks for about $6500 each plus shipping. Any thoughts on these guys out of Wyo. (fomerly Lousyana)?

    George, your C-12 mod sounds awesome. Any problems with chine walking? Did you install lifting rails?

    Cheers,

    Mick

  9. #19
    George Guest

    old 6V92 Mods

    Mick,
    It will walk when you trim bow down, otherwise, forget the tabs, keep the bow up, and she rides nicely. There is a whole new dynamic as a result of a 1,200 Lb. weight loss with the new Cats. The hull rises out of the hole very quickly because of the weight, true 700 HP, and the fact I can swing a 29" X 34" prop, where as before, 26" X 28" 3 blade was standard. She finds a level all of her own, and I have yet to run her in a serious head sea, but, in those conditions, you throttle back and probably run 25kts or less. At that point, with and 85, your well within running spec, tab down, and rip a hole in the ocean. Your hull being a 70's and I'm and 85, yours will probably have more difficulty maintaining stability due to the different design, and that's when you see owners, chopping keels, adding spray rails, putting on longer and wider tabs, etc. As far a me adding, I'm done enhancing performance as this is all I could possibly want or expect. Next is the paint job and new tower, but I have to hit the power ball lottery. To your question about PC industries, I suggest you get minimum 3-4 opinions from various repower yards. Depending where you are, you may want to touch base with Tom Slane @ Slane Marine. He is very knowledgable about Hatterases, and what you may want to do. He is very practical and pragramatic. He can consult and provide engineering services for refits. He is often on this site as well.

  10. #20
    mikfinf16 Guest

    6v92 engine mods

    Genesis,

    How big a step-up gear would you use to increase engine life? Would you mind sending me you list of recommended mods?

    Thanks, Mick

    mikfinf16@yahoo.com

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