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  1. #41

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Another benefit of my pre-raw water pump hose connection is that I can prime the raw water pump with it..... Still gonna soap it up nicely.Nap time.[/QUOTE]You’re leaving that pump plate with the PVC fitting in place? You won’t be able to prime anything that way. Priming is pointless. Just lube the impeller, plate and pump casing installing a new impeller and go. Take out the pump cam (1 screw) and have a look. If the new impeller slides in with little effort, you can bet you’ll need a new cam and back plate. Worn cam = poor output. You can get those at DEPCO or have them rebuild entire pump.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  2. #42

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Quote Originally Posted by racclarkson@gmail.com View Post
    You’re leaving that pump plate with the PVC fitting in place?
    Eh, no. Hose goes where the yellow cap is.
    Attached Images
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  3. #43

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Impeller installed and fired it up. Lots of soap bubbles out the back = good. Fat river flow out the exhaust. Reservoir cap leaking. Replaced with new. Temps seem to be rising slower than usual, hard to tell. Got the IR numbers on the T-stat housings up to 145 (both sides equal) at which point the electric gauges were reading 150 and the mechanical 155. Will know more after sea trial.

    On edit.... fresh mechanical gauge ordered. And, as explained before, the sender for the electric gauges MAY not be the right one. New one on order.
    Last edited by oscarvan; 09-24-2020 at 12:18 PM.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  4. #44

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Quote Originally Posted by oscarvan View Post
    Eh, no. Hose goes where the yellow cap is.
    I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, and hopefully I'm just confused. The yellow capped valve is where you're introducing a freshwater flush, correct? And that's the pump's intake, right? If, that's the case, it won't work unless you first remove the pump impeller each time you wish to use it. The goal I thought you were after was the ability to freshwater flush the motors after each use. If the goal was to have a port to introduce cleaning solution every season or so, then that location will make that job easier. Please forgive me if I'm confused.
    Last edited by racclarkson@gmail.com; 09-24-2020 at 02:57 PM.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  5. #45

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Quote Originally Posted by racclarkson@gmail.com View Post
    I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, and hopefully I'm just confused. The yellow capped valve is where you're introducing a freshwater flush, correct? And that's the pump's intake, right? If, that's the case, it won't work unless you first remove the pump impeller each time you wish to use it. The goal I thought you were after was the ability to freshwater flush the motors after each use. If the goal was to have a port to introduce cleaning solution every season or so, then that location will make that job easier. Please forgive me if I'm confused.
    Yes you are confused. There are TWO separate operations going on here. 1 Fresh water flush, 2 Priming and winterizing.

    Fresh water flush would be regularly and needs to be AFTER the pump. Hence my looking at the connecter tubes between the two intercoolers. Don't want to have to take the impeller out every time you run the engine.

    Winterizing and priming happens through the yellow cap, before the pump. Priming with the impeller IN (which worked nicely this morning) and winterizing with the impeller OUT. (once a year)
    Last edited by oscarvan; 09-24-2020 at 04:29 PM.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  6. #46

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Glad I was confused. I’m still confused I think. You’ll be the first I’ve heard of to try and prime their raw water pump. Maybe I’m wrong yet again, but those Jabsco’s pickup before you can say .... ‘standby to prime the pumps’ because they’re positive displacement pumps a/k/a self priming. Do you have ER start capability? Just wondering.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  7. #47

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Did you drill/tap that valve fitting into the elbow?

    So, I'm wanting to add easy acid flush ports to both my mains at some point over the winter. I'm due for a flush and want to add the ports so future flushes would be easier.

    I've seen Robert's setup, but I'm thinking drilling/tapping my elbows at intake may be easiest to get it in.

    So, where does the return go? Or do I just have to pull off the hoses that go to my mixer elbows and run them to the bucket?

    Sorry to hijack, just a subject that interests me.

    I do agree with Robert on priming, no need to ever do that, those impellers would suck a golf ball through a straw if you hooked it up right lol. The residual soap from install will more than adequately lubricate the impeller until it sees water.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  8. #48

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Quote Originally Posted by rustybucket View Post
    Did you drill/tap that valve fitting into the elbow?


    So, where does the return go? Or do I just have to pull off the hoses that go to my mixer elbows and run them to the bucket?
    Roger no need to prime...... Thought I read that in the service manual.

    The elbow was drilled and tapped with a plug in it when I got the boat. There was a ziplock baggie with a 1/2" NPT threaded/gardenhose barb and a post it note: "To winterize engine". The other side has one too, but since there is no elbow they put the tap in the top of the strainer.

    Yes, the exit is the hoses removed from the shower heads with one side plugged.
    Last edited by oscarvan; 09-24-2020 at 08:45 PM.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  9. #49

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Quote Originally Posted by oscarvan View Post
    Yes, the exit is the hoses removed from the shower heads with one side plugged.
    Good deal, that makes perfect sense. Thanks!
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  10. #50

    Re: Acid flush raw water system.....

    Sea trial results.....

    1300 RPM Electrical gauges 175/180 Mechanical gauges 175/185 IR on thermostat housings 170/170/170/169

    1900 RPM Electrical gauges 180/185 Mechanical gauges 180/200 IR: 176/176/178/176 (Rounded to the nearest whole degree....)

    So 1: The new impeller and flush made a huge difference. It is running a skosh cooler @1300, but 2: It's no longer going into oh crap territory at high RPM. WIN!

    I am now even more doubtful of the SB mechanical gauge. New one ordered which will be calibrated sous vide. Will also calibrate the one that's in there to confirm suspicion of high reading.

    There is still the possibility that the electrical sender is either off or for a single gauge setup. New one on order.

    Progress.

    On edit: Oh and the new reservoir cap which was leaking as pressure has something to do with thermostat operation. How and why I don't have my head around yet.
    Last edited by oscarvan; 09-26-2020 at 03:29 PM.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

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