Worthwhile haul out

[jason.erbecker]

I had a bulge pump kicking on too often/too regularly. A more experienced and knowledgeable Hatterati pinpointed the cause. The rudder posts were letting in a steady flow of water. I had the boat hauled out and the work commenced. The rudders were dropped out and the parking glands were re-done. A new rudder post support shelf was needed, so that was built and installed. Since we are getting into all that, the wheels got pulled off and sent it for tuning/balancing. I also found out that one of the cutlass bearings was bad so they are both getting replaced. In the end, it’s good to know that when she is back in the water this weekend, I’ve got a 100% solid runner.

[jason.erbecker]

And a slight complication... The aft struts on the boat are tapered which means the replacement of the cutlass bearings is slightly more difficult as the shafts have to be removed. This means that I'll be replacing the bearings in both forward and aft struts... more difficulty leads to more time thence more money. Still, in the end I'll know that from the transmissions to the business end all the running gear will be 100% solid.

[Boatsb]

Tapered? Please explain.

[SEVEN]

Better to do it know than wait until your in trouble. I’m going to be checking mine close next haul out.

[jim rosenthal]

Where's the taper? The only thing I can imagine is that the strut itself is faired to a point in front to reduce drag, but that wouldn't change the cutlass bearing. Every cutlass bearing I've seen is cylindrical; actually I think it's possible to press them out with the shaft still in place.

Maybe because of the shape of the strut itself, the shaft has to be removed to get the cutlass bearing out?

[madhatter1]

I just did this on my port side. There was a very noticeable vibration but even out of the water seemed like there was no play. Replaced strut and carrier cutlass bearings, reconditioned props (no major issues), and now smooth as can be. This was all done without removing the shaft.

[jason.erbecker]

Where's the taper? The only thing I can imagine is that the strut itself is faired to a point in front to reduce drag, but that wouldn't change the cutlass bearing. Every cutlass bearing I've seen is cylindrical; actually I think it's possible to press them out with the shaft still in place.

Maybe because of the shape of the strut itself, the shaft has to be removed to get the cutlass bearing out?

I was told that they couldn't get the cutlass bearings out / in with the shaft in place. I had no idea that there were struts that would necessitate that.

[jason.erbecker]

Where's the taper? The only thing I can imagine is that the strut itself is faired to a point in front to reduce drag, but that wouldn't change the cutlass bearing. Every cutlass bearing I've seen is cylindrical; actually I think it's possible to press them out with the shaft still in place.

Maybe because of the shape of the strut itself, the shaft has to be removed to get the cutlass bearing out?

Yes, that's what the yard told me. I am a newbie, but the yard has a very good reputation so, I said "Damn. Well, do what has to be done."

[Boatsb]

I've never seen a hatt with anything but a standard cutlass bearing and I've changed a bunch. Never pulled a shaft because of a "taper". The press works with the shaft in place pretty easily. Something sounds wrong to me.

[jim rosenthal]

Odd. Usually if the cutlass bearings are changed with the shafts out, it's because the shaft had to come out for another reason, like damage, truing, or replacement, and the yard or owner decided to change out the cutlass bearings because they were worn or as a "while you're in there". But maybe the press device can't work around that strut or something.

In any event, with trued shafts and fresh cutlass bearings and an alignment, plus servicing both propellers, the boat should be glass smooth when running.