Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    Hose on older boats

    Considering the purchase an older Hat (1970's era) and started to think about all the systems, etc. that will need to be replaced.

    One item I just thought about are the hoses, particularly those that don't have a seacock, such as the exhaust hoses. Do these fail? Do they need to be replaced? I would think a leak in one of these would be a disaster. How would you prevent sinking if one of these failed?

    I didn't look at the transom to see how the hoses attach, but assume there is no seacock or other method of stopping the inrush of water.

    I was on a sailboat once, that had an exhaust water issue. As a result the muffler (Pastic) melted. Fortunately, this was inboard of the exhaust loop, so we didn't take on sea water. That is what go me thinking about the exhaust hoses and possible problems in that area.

  2. #2

    Re: Hose on older boats

    The wall thickness on the exhaust hose is about 3/8”. Change the impellers out regularly and the risk of burning the exhaust hose is pretty small. You can mount heat senders on the riser to an alarm system if you want extra insurance.

  3. #3

    Re: Hose on older boats

    The exhaust hoses on mine were soft and collapsing. No leaks but they were in bad shape. Had to redo them anyway during the repower as I needed 8” instead of 6”.

    So folks have used small ball fenders or even balls and inflate them in the hole to seal them for maintenance or emergency. The only time I ve heard of boats sinking due to hoses are in areas with rodents getting in chewing thru
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  4. #4

    Re: Hose on older boats

    If it is an older boat, as you say, and has 2,500-4,000 hours on engines, then recommend replacing the Lube lines and the Fuel lines. This was per an experienced big Hatt Shop triple ABYC tech. He says they can de-laminate on the inside while looking sound on the outside. I did so.

    Also, for some reason copper piping is used for water lines, all except the water heater(s). Their connecting pipes can be galvanized (instead of bronze). They can be corroded. Replace with new fittings and use bronze.

    The older boats have probably had some hoses changes out over time. Ensure that the below-the-waterline hoses are wire-reinforced- an ABYC std. Ensure that all hoses are sound. If above the waterline, verify that are at least some type of reinforced hose.

    Mentioned on here many times about the older boats, is that the holding tanks pump-out pipes will be corroded off about 6-10 inches, above the bottom of the tanks. Not too pleasant, but pull the bronze plug and probe for the bottom of those pipes, with a straightened coat hanger wire, with a little right angle 1/4-1/2" bend on the end. If the pipe is unsound, i.e. your probe cannot catch good metal for the length of the pipe, then your holding tanks will not fully pump out. Sams has replacement pipes in a rated plastic that is a replacement.

    Pull the small (8" x 8") or so covers that are aft, over the mount points for the struts. Verify all is sound and no leaks.

    If you need some good wrenches for adjusting the stuffing boxes or the rudder stocks, contact "York" at [ yorkdesignandfab.com ]. They answer the phone.
    Last edited by spartonboat1; 08-14-2020 at 02:08 AM.
    50 Years on the Great Lakes...

  5. #5

    Re: Hose on older boats

    Good info. Thanks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts