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  1. #11

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    FWIW, I would proceed one step at a time. You can absolutely trust David, these guys have sold and serviced and rebuilt both Cat and Cummins for literally decades. The first engines I had majored in that shop were DDs in the 1980s. Those 6-71s are probably still out there.

    Pull the head and see what's going on.

    You can also absolutely trust Tony. He has done MANY repowers with those engines and similar ones, and Cummins engineers always sign off on his work so that the warranty is in effect. If he built you exhaust systems, they are done right.

    I don't know if you need to pull the engine entirely. Yet. I don't think you are at that point, but (and I hope not) you might get there. But I would do the head first.

  2. #12

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    Bob...Two push rods were bent...not connecting rods as far as I know at this point. The exhaust was evaluated by the company I bought the engines from. The criteria of 10" from the waterline was met but may have not been enough..who knows. I think the water could have come from the elbow's water injection point as well. When I removed it to install Tony's engineered system I remember seeing a small hole in the jacket of the cummins elbow. Since the Cummins elbow may not have had the water injected downstream enough it could have backed up through the hole I found.

  3. #13

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    Do you use surge tubes when you install these? Reason I ask is that my exhaust (done by Slane) has them, and I don't always see them.

  4. #14

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    Jim,

    I don't have surge tubes installed as I left the mufflers in place from the 454's. The exhaust system they installed when the boat was new was robust enough/set up for caterpillars even though the original owner put in 454's. When the back pressure was checked at install of the 330bs the installer said everything was fine as is. Tony's exhaust design was supposed to make things even better. No surge tubes.

  5. #15

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    Yes, I read your post wrong and confused the original cummins exhaust with your new design from seaboard marine. I feel good about my decision now. I do not have turbos but need to move the cooling water to the downward slope of the riser.

    Walt Hoover

  6. #16

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    SO I'm probably headed down tomorrow to remove the head on the port Cummins 330b 6BTA...First time doing this on a diesel. Figured I'd never have to do this since the diesel should outlast any gas engine I've ever had. True for my many land-based diesels. Gotta find out what went wrong.

    Anyone have any pointers or suggestions? Things to avoid? Should not be that that. Just very heavy.

    Jack

  7. #17

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    You may want to reconsider just replacing the head. With such low hours the original head should be very rebuild able. If you do replace make sure its not Chinese junk. Lots of it out there. Rebuilding is a very basic operation on these..
    Fred
    31 Tiara Open
    "Escalation"

  8. #18

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    If he obtains the replacement head from T&S it will not be junk, I assure you. I have no idea whether replacement heads are cast overseas. I believe they said that the cost of rebuilding it was not much different from getting a new one, but I may be mistaken.

  9. #19

    Re: Cummins Top-End work Reccomendation

    We started disassembly and with the custom exhaust off and turbo off we found somehow water got in there. Tony believes this to be from my travel lift operators not keeping the bow up to level when removing it Both the turbo and exhaust were installed new so I know its not lingering from the previous set up from the original install. I disassembled and cleaned up the turbo and it appears fine after being stuck. Tested the balance by looking at the blade spinning while using the shop vac trick. Seemed fine so I'm going to reinstall once the head inspection is done.

    Purchased a cheap injector remover so I can move forward with the head. I'm hoping I see no piston damage. I looked using a boroscope just in cylinder 4 where the worst bent pushrod was and did not see anything notable. Just a bunch of soot. I remember when I removed all of the pushrods for inspection after seeing the bent one that the entire engine turned over very smoothly and I heard nothing out of the ordinary. No restrictions. When I put the rods back in their original location and hand turned the motor there was a binding in cylinder 1 like maybe a valve was stuck or bent. Thats why I am moving forward with removing the head. Will probably start Monday-Tuesday of the weather cooperates. I'm hoping i dont see something disasterous.

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