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  1. #1

    Dock Power Issues.

    As suspected our marina does not have 240V at the pedestals. Looks like we’re only getting 210. None of the AC units on our boat will run for any length of time without shutting down. Verified it’s a power issue by running the generator and everything operates fine. Short of hiring electrician to install a transfer does anybody have any simple solutions? The marina is also looking into possible solutions. It’s good and bad that it happened on what is to be the hottest day yet his year.
    Dave & Trina
    Benedetto
    1989 60MY HATDK310
    Sturgeon Bay/Ft. Lauderdale

  2. #2

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Your marina is most likely wired as 120/208 volts in a 'wye" configuration.

    Look at the dockside boost transformer on page M18 at the following link.

    https://images.carid.com/charles/ite...es-catalog.pdf

    The one shown here is a simple inline water proof model with a 50A male plug input and 50 amp female plug out. It just simply plugs in line with the boat and corrects the 208 to 240 VAC.

    There are other companies that make dockside ABYC approved inline boost transformers.
    Of course if your marina wants to they can install an outdoor rated boost transformer for your power pedestal.
    Tim
    1979 53' MY Hull #566
    KNOW PRESSURE
    Hampton, Virginia

  3. #3

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Dave,
    Call me and I'll tell you what to do. If you don't still have my number, Randy has it.

    Sky
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  4. #4

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Unfortunately Charles Marine pulled out of the marine market around 4 years ago.
    Wards Marine Electric in Ft Lauderdale makes/sells a portable 50amp booster.

    Looks like this company has a replacement for the Charles Marine ISO-boost.

    https://angconverters.com/ANG-Boost.pdf
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  5. #5

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    We have the same issue here at Cedar Point in Jacksonville: 210v at the pedestal. Fortunately, the previous owner acquired a boost transformer at some point, so now we have 240v. We do have to monitor loads since the transformer trades amps for volts. We have also had to use it at the occasional marina when traveling too. It’s worth the expense to have one onboard IMHO.
    Michael & Beth
    Hull Number CV312
    63’ Cockpit Motor Yacht
    1986 model launched in August 1987

  6. #6

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Some A/C units will allow you to lower the Low ACv setting and continue running. The compressors can run at 200Vac as long as current (AMPS) are available.

    Keep in mind; nothing is for free. Those booster transformers take current (amps) to make volts.

    As old and damaged docks are rebuilt and new docks come up, These 3-phase Wye systems will become more of a dockers way of life. Including dock-side GFI service. More things to consider when DIY projects come on board.
    Last edited by Captain Ralph; 06-03-2020 at 11:57 AM.

  7. #7

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Don't want to start a big debate here, just an observation:

    We just built new floating docks at our Yacht Club all with 50 amp pedestals.
    They supply true 125/250 VAC at 50 amp on a "delta" connection to the power pedestals.
    Yes, It does have sophisticated fault type breakers at the main distribution panels.
    Older boats (not the Hatteras'), boats with improperly wired inverters and those that people put home type appliances on with the ground wire and the grounded conductor tied together made a few local AYBC electricians a lot of money getting them straight.

    The old docks have 120/208 volt 50 amp power and 120 volt 30 amp outlets feed from a "wye" configured transformer.

    Last summer I stayed at the newly rebuild Baltimore Inner Harbor Marina with all new state of the art marina power. The connections were 125/250 VAC 50 amp and the voltage was darn near that on the boat (actually about 120/240 VAC).

    The National Electric Code in the section governing marinas, NEC 555.19(A)(3) frowns pretty hard on feeding 120/208 VAC to the 125/250 50 amp outlets specifically calling out:

    "
    Note: Supplying 120/240V 3-wire receptacles from a 120/208V 3-wire supply may cause overheating or malfunctioning of connected equipment.:
    Tim
    1979 53' MY Hull #566
    KNOW PRESSURE
    Hampton, Virginia

  8. #8

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    Home appliances are normal on boats over 50’ or so. No such things as full size fridges, ovens etc...
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  9. #9

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    I'm on the end of the line at my 208V marina. Rarely will I get 208V--closer to 200. I've been on that diet for near on five years now. I also docked at a number of marinas supplying 240V (as does my 20Kw gen.) over the years. I'm very lucky. All my stuff works on all voltages encountered, so I'm not touching anything. But it is nice when the Keurig gets my first cup in the morning at 240V speed instead of dial-up.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  10. #10

    Re: Dock Power Issues.

    The solution is to use the OEM transformers that you have on the boat. I have been using mine to boost for the last 10 years. I have also wired a couple of other Hatts to do the same. Its really quite simple.

    Hatteras wired the transformer backwards (primary is used as secondary and secondary is used as primary) so you to reverse that first. Then its a simple switch that connects two taps in the transformer to add a 15% boost. I have posted this several times here. I just don't understand why more people don't do this. Why spend $$$$$ for some other transformer when you already have what you need aboard?
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

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