Hull and Topsides Paint Color for 1964-68 50' FDMY

[MarTex]

Hello All,

Any information or suggestions on where I could find out the original "white" hull and topsides color for the 1964-68 50' FDMYs?

Does anyone know for sure if they even painted back then or was it just gelcoat?

Thanks,
MarTex

[bigbill]

your owners manual will have it listed. if you dont have an owners manual it is worth it to purchase one from hatteras, have your hull or serial number handy when you call them

[SeaEric]

Hello All,

Any information or suggestions on where I could find out the original "white" hull and topsides color for the 1964-68 50' FDMYs?

Does anyone know for sure if they even painted back then or was it just gelcoat?

Thanks,
MarTex

They were always painted. Perhaps Fanfare will answer. He owns one since new.

[Fanfare]

My Owner's Manual states that each Hatteras 50MY began with a 15 mil gel cote followed by a two-part epoxy paint. All exterior paint was by Pettit, the white was #170, my red boot stripe #676.

In the time since the paint formulation has greatly advanced despite tightening requirements to reduce VOC. At the same time bottom anti-fouling paint has attempted to be less toxic, reducing its efficiency. I guess it is in the same category as reducing diesel exhaust emissions at the expense of hugely increasing maintenance requirements.

In the past, using Awlgrip or Imron paints I found Fanfare needed repainting every 12 years or so. However I now have five years on something I believe is called Awlcraft and she still looks like new. Being mostly a southern boat I pick the brightest and most reflective white I can find. I particularly remember the next-to-last being Awlgrip Matterhorn White in order to minimize the air conditioning load (greatly appreciated as the temps in Key West this week are nearly 10 degrees above average, in the lower 90s). "Hatteras White" is considerably darker and creamier in color.

As previously advised, get your Owner's Manual from Hatteras. It has all kinds of important information such as wiring and plumbing diagrams. Just bear in mind that prior owners may have made undocumented changes through the years.

[Boatsb]

Awlcraft is an acrylic urethane that allows polishing and repair much like imron. Awlgrip is harder and more durable but does not easily repair as it cures with a clear top of sorts.

Either one uses the same preparation as does imron, alexseal and most other 2 part epoxy paints. Use the beat paint possible. The cost of topcoat is negligible in the whole job.

[jim rosenthal]

What Scott said is absolutely true. Most of how a paint job looks is in the prep work to begin with. Most of the cost is in the hours of prep work.

I did the entire topsides of Blue Note a few yesars back, rolling/tipping it in sections. Once you get good at it and learn how to use the accelerator, you can get nearly spray-quality work. The paint also goes three times as far when you are r/t it as opposed to spraying.

AwlGrip now comes in two formulas, AwlGrip 1 and 2. Not sure what the difference is, but they are the same in that you can't buff either one- the shine is on the top. AwlCraft is like Imron- if it dulls, you can buff it back to a shine and it will last a long while.

[MarTex]

Everyone,

Thanks for all the input--particularly Fanfare.

FYI, we plan to use AwlCraft. I used it on a previous boat and it was still looking good after 9 years and I liked the fact that it could be buffed and repaired easier than AwlGrip.

MarTex

[wpc691]

I called the guys at Hatteras from the counter at Finishmasters. They talked directly to the counter guy, settled on the correct current color codes for hull and stripes, and I bought a couple of quarts of Axalta new Imron.