Some may recall I've mentioned the need to replace the aging 3/4" sea strainer to head pump hoses on Aslan. I wanted to also accomplish the eventual elimination of 2 of the three head intakes through this consolidation. Initially, my design called for a manifold and valves set-up. While that offers certain advantages, the space required is just too valuable to lose. My bow thruster limits access now to the younger and more flexible types.
So, I've come up with more of a daisy chain plan which I've posted for your target practicing enjoyment. Here goes:
IMG_1290.jpg
One 3/4" line (blue) will run from a sea strainer to head pump #1 (master stateroom head) where it will be tee'd and continue forward and around the bow compartment to head pump #2 (Fwd. cabin head). Along the way, check valve #1 (red) will be installed to prevent the flushing of #1 from draining heads #'s 2 and 3.
The line continues and tee's into head pump #2 before terminating at #3. Again, a check valve, #2, (red) will be installed before reaching #3 to prevent #2 from flush draining #3.
Since the entire blue supply line will remain below the waterline as originally designed, all the head pumps should have an ample supply of water to maintain prime through the check valve operation.
The lack of isolation valves will not be an issue. Water to all toilets can be shut-off at the seacock. When it comes time to service a head pump, I can plug the fill line at #3 or simply connect #'s 1 and 3 with a double barb, thereby, isolating #2 for service, as an example. At present, I always insert a plug in the line when pulling a pump for service--below the waterline safety.
So in going in this direction, I've eliminated a lot of the cost with a minimal loss of convenience. This is more than made up by the space savings. I'll also gain some access by removing existing hoses. I have no plans to convert to freshwater flushing. But if Aslan's next owner does, the new set-up shouldn't offer any obstacles.
OK, there it is all tee'd up for you. Fire away. But, remember our forum's unofficial motto before posting:
This is not a place for folks with sensitive feelings
Thx, Robert
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Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Couple of thoughts.
Is it possible to make the main supply hose a larger ID?
It might be better if the check valves are located between the main supply line and the pump, so on the pump side of the "T", to lower the restriction in the main supply line.
This would add 1 additional check valve.
What type and or material for the valves are you think about?
Essentially this is what we did except we have a manifold with check valves and then home runs to the pumps pulling out of the water tank.
Our original plan was to add another valve at the manifold to be able to use seawater but never did it since the freshwater worked so well.Last edited by Cricket; 02-19-2020 at 02:06 PM.
CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E
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Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Hi Robert,
Maybe I am missing something but I think you will need 3 check valves one at the input to each pump?
Pump #2 will still try to draw on pump #1 if there is any restriction on the sea strainer or pick up?
Pump #3 will still try to draw on pump #2 and pump #1?Tim
1979 53' MY Hull #566
KNOW PRESSURE
Hampton, Virginia
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02-19-2020 02:25 PM #5
Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Second having an unrestricted "stand pipe" from through hull to end, and putting the check valves on the pump side of the "laterals".....
In fact.... not sure how the layout is... but if you make the stand pipe larger diameter, could you supply the AC pump with it and cut out some more plumbing/through hull?1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
Hull number 524
Chesapeake Bay
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Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
That's a nice looking spring loaded non-metallic check valve, except for the 316 SS spring.
Thinking it will be hard for the 2nd and 3rd units to pull water thru multiple check valves if they're in the main supply line.
Does blue hose = silicone hose? haha.CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E
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Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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02-19-2020 08:47 PM #9
Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Let us know how it works. I may do mine if it does. My only concern would be one of the upstream pumps pulling enough water out of the downstream pumps to cause it to lose prime. I understand water will flow back in there but mine seem to get air locked easily. When I close the seacock to add Bromine tabs to the strainer and re-open I have one that usually needs to be bled to flush just in that process. Perhaps the suggestion of a larger supply hose with smaller ones at the T would help prevent any draw out of a pump. Definitely less friction loss in the larger hoses.
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02-19-2020 08:59 PM #10
Re: Galley Maid Head Pump Re-Plumination
Put a ball valve next to each check valve for easy maintenance and troubleshooting.
1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee