Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    ​Good Morning All:

    In my search for my next boat, I swore-off two things. As much as I love the big, old, Hatts, I said I would eliminate big thirsty complex engines with multiple turbos and 32VDC Systems.

    So, here's the question....how do I know which sizes, years and models have 32VDC systems and what was the progression after that? This is not something that is listed on any of the brokerage listings. The engines, are pretty obvious, but I'll bet someone can tell me something about the evolution of Hatteras's DC systems.

    Much as I'd hate to leave the brand, I've even looked at some Berties with the 32VDC's as well, so now it's a "thing" with me!

    Thanks all,
    Vince

  2. #2

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Quote Originally Posted by Vince View Post
    ​Good Morning All:

    In my search for my next boat, I swore-off two things. As much as I love the big, old, Hatts, I said I would eliminate big thirsty complex engines with multiple turbos and 32VDC Systems.

    So, here's the question....how do I know which sizes, years and models have 32VDC systems and what was the progression after that? This is not something that is listed on any of the brokerage listings. The engines, are pretty obvious, but I'll bet someone can tell me something about the evolution of Hatteras's DC systems.

    Much as I'd hate to leave the brand, I've even looked at some Berties with the 32VDC's as well, so now it's a "thing" with me!

    Thanks all,
    Vince
    The DD's ARE simple. Even with turbos. No injection pump, no ECU. Everything else that came after and develops 400 or so horses has a turbo and an ECU. Unless you want to install a 8 foot long antique...... Or are happy doing 7 knots with a Perkins.

    32V is not more complicated. It's exactly the same as 12V except there's more battery on one end and a different bulb on the other end. Yes, sourcing things may take a little more time. AFAIK all Hatts are 32V until the $$$$ modern boats.... (I may be wrong here)

    Some people convert the house side to 24V..... Not complicated just labor.

    ALL old boats are going to have projects.
    Last edited by oscarvan; 02-19-2020 at 10:43 AM.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  3. #3

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    I live 2 miles from the Hatteras factory and my next door neighbor retired from there after 28 years. Hopefully I'll see him tonight and I'll ask him about the 32VDC phase out.

  4. #4

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    I'd kinda echo what oscaravan says. The old DD's are about as simple of an engine as you can find. If you have air, fuel and compression they are running. You are correct on the BIG issue, they are big and heavy. Newer 4 stroke and electronic engines are great and all, until you have a problem with them. I'd actually greatly prefer detroits over some of the more issue-prone 4 stroke models from other mfg's. That being said, there are some really nice repower options from the big marine mfg's

    On paper a 32v system is better than a 12v system. In reality it can be somewhat of a pain to source the 32v fixtures sometimes, but everything I've looked for has been easily orderable and shipped right to my doorstep within a few days. West marine even carries some of the 32v essentials usually, light bulbs, bilge pumps...etc.

    I guess what I'm getting at, there are a LOT of things that would sway my opinion on a boat purchase, but detroits and 32v would NOT even be in the decision tree of deciding factors.

    All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  5. #5

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Most boats already have a dual DC system as some things are not available in 24v. VHFs, some Sounders and marine Stereos are usually 12 VDC not 24. So adding a couple of extra circuits to the 12v system is no big deal. In fact every 24V boat I ve run had a factory installed 12V subpanel typically powered by the generator battery
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  6. #6

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Rusty, please please do not put in 110V AC underwater lights.
    Just get a voltage reducer to use with some 24v led underwater lights.

    Btw, changing your boat over to 24v will be like having a party compared to you're other projects.
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  7. #7

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Quote Originally Posted by rustybucket View Post
    I'd kinda echo what oscaravan says. The old DD's are about as simple of an engine as you can find. If you have air, fuel and compression they are running. You are correct on the BIG issue, they are big and heavy. Newer 4 stroke and electronic engines are great and all, until you have a problem with them. I'd actually greatly prefer detroits over some of the more issue-prone 4 stroke models from other mfg's. That being said, there are some really nice repower options from the big marine mfg's

    On paper a 32v system is better than a 12v system. In reality it can be somewhat of a pain to source the 32v fixtures sometimes, but everything I've looked for has been easily orderable and shipped right to my doorstep within a few days. West marine even carries some of the 32v essentials usually, light bulbs, bilge pumps...etc.

    I guess what I'm getting at, there are a LOT of things that would sway my opinion on a boat purchase, but detroits and 32v would NOT even be in the decision tree of deciding factors.

    All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.
    I agree totally.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  8. #8

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Quote Originally Posted by rustybucket View Post
    All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.
    I don't know how much load underwater lights pull. I'm 32V with a 24V Maxwell windlass. And while I realize this is not the textbook way of doing things, it runs just fine on 3 of my 8V house bank batteries.

    I also have a 24V bow thruster with its dedicated group 31s. That could be a source for the lights if you had a set-up like that.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  9. #9

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    Quote Originally Posted by racclarkson@gmail.com View Post
    I don't know how much load underwater lights pull. I'm 32V with a 24V Maxwell windlass. And while I realize this is not the textbook way of doing things, it runs just fine on 3 of my 8V house bank batteries.

    I also have a 24V bow thruster with its dedicated group 31s. That could be a source for the lights if you had a set-up like that.
    I have considered that and was promptly told that was not the right way to do things lol.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  10. #10

    Re: Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

    I would expect that they went away from the 32v system the same time they went away from the series 71 engines. When everything went 4 stroke in the 90's. I have to agree with everyone here, the 32v hasn't really been the issue I thought it would be. Everything seems to be available, and I run 12v stuff off of the generator battery, and I might go ahead and add a second in parallel. And the engines are actually simpler than newer engines. Much simpler. Big and old and leaky is accurate though.
    Prometheus
    1978 53' MY Hull #529
    Viera, FL

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts