Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    I don't believe 550 is for below the waterline. Double check before you find out the hard way.
    Scott
    41C117 "Hattatude"
    Port Canaveral Florida.


    Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.

  2. #12

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rosenthal View Post
    For what the bolts cost, I'd replace them. And one at a time, like the man sez. 3M 550 is new to me. I'll have to look it up. I would have said 4200.
    Jim:
    Yes, for a 1972 boat, new bolts seems indicated, esp. Silicon-Bronze.

    I have not researched the 3M 550, so if you have findings, would be interested to hear.
    50 Years on the Great Lakes...

  3. #13

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatsb View Post
    I don't believe 550 is for below the waterline. Double check before you find out the hard way.
    550, 4200 and 5200 are all rated for above and below waterline uses. I'd venture to say that almost every thru-hull fitting in a production boat leaving the factory today is sealed with 550. According to 3m it is the appropriate choice for this application.

    5200 is more of an adhesive than a sealant. 4200 is more of a sealant than an adhesive. 550 is right in the middle of them with both good sealant and adhesive properties. 3m rates 5200 as 'good' for sealing, it rates 550 and 4200 as 'Best Choice' for sealing. In this particular application he needs extra 'sealing', the sealant is not doing anything to 'hold' or 'bond' the screw, the mechanical fasteners are handling all the bonding.

    I've pulled apart many parts 'sealed' with 5200 only to find that water was getting in, at least partially in most cases. 5200 is great for gluing things together, not so much for sealing them.

    By far the best thing about 550 is that it is rated as removable, 5200 is not. Also 550 is paintable in an hour and cured in 24hrs. 5200 can take days to fully cure.

    If you want the word straight from 3m here is a link to the brochure for the products. Open this document and do a find/search for 'below' it will lead you straight to the excerpt. There is also a good comparison chart on page 6.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...e2k7MADAhl80AF


    3MTM 550 Polyurethane
    Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure
    • Multi-purpose adhesive sealant
    • Paintable
    • Above/below waterline use
    • 60-minute skin time
    Last edited by rustybucket; 02-10-2020 at 07:41 AM.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  4. #14

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    At the boatyard we use they hauled a 3 year old 80' Viking to remove a keel pocket mounted transducer, huge 3kw chirp transducer.
    It took the crew Viking sent 2 full days to get it out of the keel, I assumed it was put in with 5200, no matter there was so much of it there that a lot of it had not cured.
    Now after Rusty's post i'm not sure if it was 5200 or not. They did put the new one in with 5200.

    I have to somewhat agree with Rusty about the sealant qualities of 5200.
    Years ago an old timer told me he thought 5200 wicks water, and I think I've sort scene that a few times.
    We've been using Sikaflex products when we can as of late.
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  5. #15

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quote Originally Posted by Cricket View Post
    I have to somewhat agree with Rusty about the sealant qualities of 5200.
    Years ago an old timer told me he thought 5200 wicks water, and I think I've sort scene that a few times.
    I redid all the thru-hull fittings, swim platform and exhaust flanges on our old Shamrock 246. They were all bedded with 5200. Not only was it a complete nightmare to get the fittings out (most had to be destroyed to remove) but I saw a lot of what you are saying, hard to describe, like it was just wicked up toward/to the fittings in various places. I'd say half the fittings were well sealed, the rest not so much.

    5200 is a fantastic product, but like any product it has it's strengths and weaknesses. For some jobs it is the absolute correct choice, for others not so much.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  6. #16

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    BoatLIFE Life-Calk polysulfide marine sealant. You can use this product. years ago we used Thiokol, before there was anything in a tube to use. Be sure and leave a nut on the top of the bolt if you have to drive it out from the top so you can straighten out the threads. Look closely at the strut where it meets the hull to see if the seal has been broken. You may never have to remove a strut and probably wont, unless you hit something.

  7. #17

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quote Originally Posted by rustybucket View Post
    550, 4200 and 5200 are all rated for above and below waterline uses. I'd venture to say that almost every thru-hull fitting in a production boat leaving the factory today is sealed with 550. According to 3m it is the appropriate choice for this application.

    5200 is more of an adhesive than a sealant. 4200 is more of a sealant than an adhesive. 550 is right in the middle of them with both good sealant and adhesive properties. 3m rates 5200 as 'good' for sealing, it rates 550 and 4200 as 'Best Choice' for sealing. In this particular application he needs extra 'sealing', the sealant is not doing anything to 'hold' or 'bond' the screw, the mechanical fasteners are handling all the bonding.

    I've pulled apart many parts 'sealed' with 5200 only to find that water was getting in, at least partially in most cases. 5200 is great for gluing things together, not so much for sealing them.

    By far the best thing about 550 is that it is rated as removable, 5200 is not. Also 550 is paintable in an hour and cured in 24hrs. 5200 can take days to fully cure.

    If you want the word straight from 3m here is a link to the brochure for the products. Open this document and do a find/search for 'below' it will lead you straight to the excerpt. There is also a good comparison chart on page 6.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...e2k7MADAhl80AF


    3MTM 550 Polyurethane
    Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure
    • Multi-purpose adhesive sealant
    • Paintable
    • Above/below waterline use
    • 60-minute skin time
    Excellent update on the range of sealants. Very helpful, plus I will be sealing some windows and this range may contain a product for glass.

    Thanks again!
    50 Years on the Great Lakes...

  8. #18

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    I have not used 5200 for through-hulls for a while, as I've also had to remove fittings I installed with it. While Debond helps, it's still quite difficult. I use 4200 now and I've had no problems with it.

  9. #19

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rosenthal View Post
    I have not used 5200 for through-hulls for a while, as I've also had to remove fittings I installed with it. While Debond helps, it's still quite difficult. I use 4200 now and I've had no problems with it.
    Yeah, Debond. Have a tube on the wall. Tried it once, gave it a lot of time. No Joy.
    50 Years on the Great Lakes...

  10. #20

    Re: Sealing a Leaking Strut Fastener

    Quick note on 5200 use. I installed Deck Boxes - were not the OEM Hatteras boxes. The Hatt originals are very stout. While these got good marks from he USCG, not in the league with Hatt's.

    I installed them without fasteners and bedded on 3M 5200. Rode out 55mph winds, 12-15 seas (more?) for 40 mins, then 9-11 footers, - stayed nice and tight. I think the deck skin would pull up before these boxes would come off.

    P.s., the Hatt rode well- never put the bow in the sea and water never got on the decks. Props came out of water and seas tried to broach me, but she never did. And this is a "little" Hatt. I am at 33K #'s; the new 45' 40 knot convertible is 55k #'s.
    Last edited by spartonboat1; 02-11-2020 at 08:40 PM.
    50 Years on the Great Lakes...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts