Replacing butt splices with handshakes

[Westfield 11]

Is it acceptable to replace existing butt splices on 32v bilge pumps and float switches with handshakes covered with heat shrink? I have spare pumps and being able to quickly swap them in could be a Good Thing.

[SeaEric]

I don't knw the answer but I'll admit that I had to Google "handshake" connectors!

[Westfield 11]

They are very useful, if permitted I could rework all the pumps and keep the spares ready to go. We used them in flight test for sensors that were frequently removed for calibration. Otherwise the leads got shorter and shorter as you R&Rd them. We used to hold them together with a tie wrap or cover them with heat shrink since they can come apart with vibration. The ones with heat shrink never came apart no matter what, the tie wraps were only temporary since UV would make them brittle over time.

[Pascal]

I prefer using a terminal strip located as high as possible. It allows for way testing

[jim rosenthal]

They look useful, but I think there are plug connectors that would do the same thing. A plug connector with heat shrink tubing would be very secure and you could still cut the tubing with a razor knife and get it apart. For something you know you're going to have to replace sooner or later, I'd rather have the terminal strip. That also allows you to check the circuit without taking anything apart.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I have terminal blocks near all pumps.

[krush]

Get a dry box and use these Wago snap/splice connectors: https://www.wago.com/us/c/wire-splicing-connectors

Or terminal strips like picture below. I suggest putting ferules on everything.

[Guy Walters]

Just so I understand. You run the float switch wires and the pump leads to the terminal strip and make the connection there. I have one Rule float switch to change out and a Super switch to add to a pump. I have been concerned about making those new connections near the water level.
Guy

[oscarvan]

Get a dry box and use these Wago snap/splice connectors: https://www.wago.com/us/c/wire-splicing-connectors

Or terminal strips like picture below. I suggest putting ferules on everything.

That's what I grew up with in Holland. "Crown stones" we called them. All the way up to 240V in light fixtures etc. You can cut them to any size you want and you can screw them down. Do it right and have the wires overlap so EACH has two screws pressing down on it. Very very low failure rate. Every time I go over there I grab a hand full at the hardware store for a few bucks.

[Boatsb]

I'd recomend pre terminated fork connections for the screw terminals. That way you dont need to look for the screws in the bilge.

I use ring terminals most often as they hold up best. Always a 3m shrink version with the proper ratchet lock crimping tool.