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  1. #11

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    now I'm really confused. I retrieved the necessary plumbing to add check valves pre and post pump. I installed the pre pump valve, primed the pump and flipped the breaker. I opened a faucet and let all the air bleed out waiting for the pump to kick on, and it did. I shut off the faucet and returned to ensure it shut off when it reached the shut off pressure. The gauge sat at 32psi and wouldn't climb higher, pump never reached the shut off pressure. I pulled the prime plug, a little bit of air and quite a bit of water exited. Flipped the breaker back on and same response, 32 PSI and wouldn't build more.
    '88 55'C hull 394 ​BEATs Therapy
    12-71 TA's ZF BW190 1.5:1 gears

  2. #12

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    Quote Originally Posted by Sadey View Post
    Not to hijack this thread but what voltage rated pump are you guys using? Mine is a Craftsman shallow well 110volt. Surveyor suggested a 24volt back up. I know theses are mostly AC boats and I have two gennys but Murphy always rides with me it seems. Thoughts?
    Having two water pump is a must. A failed water pump is trip ender. I like having a 120v primary and a DC back up even with twin gensets
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  3. #13

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    Quote Originally Posted by ageless View Post
    now I'm really confused. I retrieved the necessary plumbing to add check valves pre and post pump. I installed the pre pump valve, primed the pump and flipped the breaker. I opened a faucet and let all the air bleed out waiting for the pump to kick on, and it did. I shut off the faucet and returned to ensure it shut off when it reached the shut off pressure. The gauge sat at 32psi and wouldn't climb higher, pump never reached the shut off pressure. I pulled the prime plug, a little bit of air and quite a bit of water exited. Flipped the breaker back on and same response, 32 PSI and wouldn't build more.
    I m not sure what you would want a check valve on the outlet

    I have a flojet shallow well pump and only have a check valve on the inlet. Are you sure there are no air leaks on the intake side?
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  4. #14

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    Sounds like a leak. If the pump didn't shut itself off and pressure won't rise above the cutoff you have an air or water leak. Could be the pump as well.
    ENUFF. 1983 53MY.Hull #617 Barnegat Light Nj.

  5. #15

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    Could you have installed the check valve backwards? You are trying to keep pressurized water from returning to the tanks.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  6. #16

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    And this is exactly what just happened! Pump building pressure, stopping and then restarting. Pulled the check valve near the inlet and sure enough there was a piece of fiberglass in the valve.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  7. #17

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    the only thing that changed was the addition of the valve, and the pump performed as it should prior to the installation. I can't say I understand the need for the outlet side valve but my Hatt manual sure shows one there.
    1. I don't see any water leaks from the new connections, threaded connections get plumbers puddy and vinyl, slip fittings are glued and left to dry for 45+ minutes before testing
    2. I checked the valve and it's installed the right direction

    I guess I could have an air leak somewhere, back at it tomorrow
    '88 55'C hull 394 ​BEATs Therapy
    12-71 TA's ZF BW190 1.5:1 gears

  8. #18

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    I would think the reason to have an outlet side check valve is if you have multiple pumps plumbed in parallel. I have three, one A/C and two DC , all have ball valves on both inlet and outlet.
    If the pump cycles often ,I would check the expansion tank precharge pressure.
    The bigger problem now is the pump not reaching cutoff pressure. This could mean there is a leak in the system. I don’t know how long that you have owned your boat , but I have a system to fill the water tanks from the dock side water fill using a valve in the engine room , if this valve is slightly open water will be constantly flowing back to the water tank and the water never reaching cutoff pressure.
    JMooney
    61 MY 1983 #341
    “Jerrie”
    Miami , FL

  9. #19

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    I had a similar issue. There was a spur fitting before the pump with a nozzle that was capped off. The cap was a copper one and I finally figured out that there was a hairline crack in the cap allowing air into the system. I McGuivered it with a wine cork (Pino Grigio I think!) to test the theory and it solved the cycling issue. I assume this fitting is to introduce the "pink stuff into the system for winterization.

  10. #20

    Re: freshwater plumbing

    I have two check valves in my FW system, which is not as complex as that on larger boats- but my boat is only 36 feet.

    There is a check valve on the dockside incoming water line. Doesn't work very well, but it's there. There is also a check valve between the tank and the inlet side of the FW pump. The pump is a 12vdc Groco SPO system, with their expansion chamber. There is also a strainer betweeen the check valve and the inlet side of the pump.

    The purpose of the check valve in the incoming FW line, the dockside water line, is to keep the pump from pushing all the water overboard. The purpose of the inline check valve is to hold prime.

    Both seem to work fine as long as they are clean. I'll echo Pascal on this- when a valve doesn't work, often something is clogging it up.

    If you can't figure this out, it would be worth getting a plumber on the boat. Hot on the left, cold on the right, shit runs downhill applies offshore as well as on shore.

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