32V Vs 12-24-36V Inverter

[metama]

My 32V inverter that connected to the house bank is dead. In researching replacements (OK- Researching Outbacks) I start to questions the role of a 32V inverter. All our 32-volt element, pumps, and lights are running directly off the house bank as is. The Fridge, outlets and everything you would want to run on the 110 side should NOT benefit from an expensive 32V Inverter. Correct?


It just so happens that I have (12) 125AH AGM batteries sitting around leftover from an unusual Film project!


SO-- If I was fine with adding an additional third battery bank is there any reason I would NOT want to put the 110 AC panel on a 12V 24V or 48V inverter?


Does 12-24-38v matter in this case? Sure the Hatteras didn't wire for 12 volt, but wouldn't I just be running one new wire run to the 110V panel in this case? Shouldn't affect any of the 110AC wirings? Correct?


300-800 for a "disposal" inverter/smart charger would run my 3rd battery bank and leave the starter and house banks alone with the ability to (Very inefficiently) charge the house / starter banks if needed.

Someone please set me straight!

Thanks-

Phil

[Boatsb]

Building a dedicated inverter bank is the best way to evolve into the current technology.

If you can add alternator(s) to the engine(s) even better as they would charge the start and inverter banks.

The ability to run an inverter as a pass through and power most everything on the boat makes it easy.

We just did a sailboat (I know boo hiss) with a 2000 watt inverter as it only has a 30 amp input to the boat and with all the systems running it uses 1800 watts. It has a 50 amp input which I set to maximum of 25. The one air conditioning system is on a separate line.

The owner now does not need to do anything when he leaves the dock. All circuits are live and no generator needed.

He will add solar soon to assist in charging at anchor.

I designed the system with 3 150 ah LiFePo batteries and its tucked under a 28 inch long area of a couch. Tight but that's all he needed.

[Photolomy]

There are benefits of putting in a third bank of batteries for inverter use.

1. You do not risk running your 32v bank dead and not being able to start that engine.
2. You do not wear out your 32v bank prematurely.
3. You are not tied to "32v" and can use any voltage.

There are also drawbacks, such as having to add a third bank (finding the space) and the additional weight that brings. In your case, you already have a third bank's worth of batteries and if you have the space then go for it.

However, if you plan on running at 12v then the cables between the batteries and the inverter will have to be thicker. The cables between the inverter and the AC panel remain the same. Others might add more to which voltage (12, 24, 36 etc) is best. Generally, higher is better because that reduces current.

Personally, I don't have a bunch of 12v batteries lying around, so I will be going down the 32v path.

[Photolomy]

Speaking of inverters. Did Outback discontinue the VFX3232M?

[miboatnutz]

There are benefits of putting in a third bank of batteries for inverter use.

1. You do not risk running your 32v bank dead and not being able to start that engine.
2. You do not wear out your 32v bank prematurely.
3. You are not tied to "32v" and can use any voltage.

There are also drawbacks, such as having to add a third bank (finding the space) and the additional weight that brings. In your case, you already have a third bank's worth of batteries and if you have the space then go for it.

However, if you plan on running at 12v then the cables between the batteries and the inverter will have to be thicker. The cables between the inverter and the AC panel remain the same. Others might add more to which voltage (12, 24, 36 etc) is best. Generally, higher is better because that reduces current.

Personally, I don't have a bunch of 12v batteries lying around, so I will be going down the 32v path.

Pretty much X2.

We replaced all the 8 volt lead acid batteries with AGM's two years ago along with the 32 volt charger. Original 32 volt system remains intact except swapping lead acid for AGM's. Due to an unfortunate incident, we also wound up replacing our NL 16KW that was wired for 24 volts start/run with a 20 Kw unit that uses 12 volt start/run.

Plan for next year is to make two banks of 12 volt batteries (probably Full River AGM again) where one bank runs a 3KW or 4 KW inverter and the other bank is 12 volt generator start/run. Going to buy an inverter with an automatic transfer switch so when batteries get to a certain level it will automatically start the generator or switch to shore power.

As part of that set up I'm also installing a 32 volt to 12 volt Analytic Systems battery charger which I purchased off of E-bay from a very famous auto racing team. Why they had it I can only imagine. That way if I somehow kill everything on the 12 volt side I still have a means of getting the generator to start

In the entire proposed arrangement we're not going to touch the original 32 volt system (other than adding the charger) and will make very limited changes to the AC side of the boat. We really only want to run the refrigerator and a few TV's from the inverter while anchored out on the lake for a few hours at a time.

[Pascal]

Redundancy is good when it comes to batteries banks and i would never run an inverter off the house bank especially one with auto transfer. For instance If you loose power at the dock, inverter will kick in, runs the battery bank down and no more bilge pumps...

Also the standard house bank isnt that big anyway and to make things worst on most older hatteras the house bank doubles as a starting bank for one engine... even less redundancy.

And as others mentioned, going with a 12 or 24v bank gives more options.

I d go with 24v as voltage drop will be less than 12v. Remember to install the inverter as close as possible to the inverter bank

[SKYCHENEY]

1)The OP references a new 110v panel. Why? If you have an inverter now, you should just be able to replace it with the new one no matter what the DC voltage is and wire it the same on the AC side as the old one.

2)As stated, a separate inverter bank has its advantages such as redundancy and the use of cheaper components especially if you have the batteries already.

[metama]

I would just wire the original 110v panel. Sure there are things you would want to always keep off the inverter but those issues could also be an advantage at times.


For example, they say you should never have a battery charger (charging the inverter bank) on the inverter AC side. Typical OEM setup if you were trying to add an inverter to the house bank. A very quick way to drain your battery if you have an interruption to your shore power when you are away. Battery charger circuit on and shore power that flips to the inverter. Whoops.


However, with a dedicated inverter bank, I love the idea of my 32v charger getting power from the inverter bank if something happens to shore power.


Then again, it does put things like the AC and in the reach of "others" when you're on the inverter. I am sure the key to the panel door is around here somewhere.

Now I just have to find out how bad/dangerously the PO did the last inverter install!

Any recommendations for a 12/24V inverter?
Slight tangent, any recommendations for a smart 32V charger to replace the Sentry?

[oscarvan]

For example, they say you should never have a battery charger (charging the inverter bank) on the inverter AC side.

That's why you use an inverter charger. (Magnum makes really nice ones in a variety of sizes). "It know".... when there's AC available and will charge nicely. If the AC drops off it will start inverting, if so programmed. (It has an internal transfer switch). No infinite electron loops.....Works like a charm.

[Pascal]

I ve jnstalled two inverters over the years, one on my 53 and one on a 70 footer I ran
I removed mine a few years ago as it crapped out but will in a new one soon

One way to do it is to re arrange your 120v breakers on the panel so that you have two groups. Inverter powered circuits and non inverter powered.

Non inverter powered circuits would be water heater, battery charger, stove and any high amp appliances. Then you add a breaker to feed the inverter (assume you use one with auto transfer). Then the inverter output comes back to the second second of your panel to power lights, outlets, fridges etc Obviously you split /cut the connecting bar so both groups are isolated from each other.

Then you Do the same for your neutrals split them like you spilt the Hots.

Magnum makes very good marine inverters made in the US. As a rule I avoid stuff made in china... what i like about magnum is that they have two inputs and two outputs. This way when you get back on shore power or gen you get a full 30amp pass thru and a full 30 amp to charge. If you have an inverter with a single input, charging rate will decrease since you have to share the 30 amps between pass thru loads and charging