Dyneema as stainless rope replacement on davit

[oceanjake]

Thank you for the feedback. Sounds like I’m not crazy for wanting to use this stuff. My winch is internal so only the last couple of feet are exposed where it runs to the deck to secure the davit. I will sheath that section with something to prevent direct sun exposure. Regarding attachment at the drum, a set screw/clamp type of connection doesn’t seem like it would work the same on this material. That is why I assumed some sort of splice. But if that is the recommendation I will give it a shot. No little crush thimble on the end or anything to clamp down onto?

[Oldlaxer1]

Splicing dyneema is about as easy as it gets.

[oceanjake]

One last question. I have 5/16” stainless cable now. I cannot locate 5/16” dyneema locally but 1/4” is readily available. I need to lift a whaler that weighs just south of 1100lbs fully loaded. The 1/4” dyneema is rated at 9700lbs so that’s a no brainer but it seems crazy to trust all of that to just 1/4” rope. Too good to be true? Would you trust this rating?

[SKYCHENEY]

One last question. I have 5/16” stainless cable now. I cannot locate 5/16” dyneema locally but 1/4” is readily available. I need to lift a whaler that weighs just south of 1100lbs fully loaded. The 1/4” dyneema is rated at 9700lbs so that’s a no brainer but it seems crazy to trust all of that to just 1/4” rope. Too good to be true? Would you trust this rating?

I couldn't believe it either, but I've been doing it for 3 years now.

[oceanjake]

Ok...75’ of 1/4” synthetic rope going on. $1.49/ft before my port supply discount. Seems like the dirt cheap upgrade of the century. Now I need to watch some YouTube videos on creating eye splices around thimbles. I’m hoping to not have to serve this...I’ve never used the rigging floss.

[rsmith]

Again how do you secure it to the winch drum?

[gbharrington]

Again how do you secure it to the winch drum?

I use Dyneema on most of the davits that I have been building for the last 5 years. I have never had a problem. It's definitely easier on the hands and since it doesn't stretch it doesn't store any energy, so if it were to fail you don't need to worry about whiplash. Now, to the question at hand; I attach the line to the winch drum by running it through the cable hole on the drum and then down the length of the drum and holding it in place with one layer of wrap (that's layer, not one wrap). I normally pull the line through the hole by forming a hook with some SS safety wire and piercing the weave. I also manipulate the weave to flatten the line as much as possible as it lays across the drum. The line also tends to flatten once it sees a heavy load on the drum. I also put a generous radius on the entry and exit of the drum hole as well as a nice lead in and out with a die grinder so the line won't be damaged.

[oceanjake]

Well today was the day. Tossed the stainless in the trash and replaced with 1/4” dyneema. It looked thicker than 1/4” until it got a load, now it looks about right. To attach to the drum, I made an eye splice, went around the drum and pulled the main line through it. My reasoning is that if it slipped it would still not be able to pay all the way off the drum. I do have plenty of rope on the drum so most of it will never see sunlight. Lifting the heavy whaler onto my bow was MUCH better for my sanity. The creaks and pops that the stainless rope made on the drum as it jumped over itself are gone. Also the roller on the end is quieter too. Couldn’t be happier!

[riverrandy]

You could keep a UV protectant like 303 on the exposed section of the Dyneema.

[Boatsb]

Protect the line with a sheath or cover. Uv protectant may cause other issues.