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Thread: Engine Issues

  1. #31
    Jackman Guest

    Flexplate

    Gotcha on that one. Once I thought about it I knew exactly what you were talking about.

  2. #32
    Jackman Guest

    Update

    Well,

    We went through the diagnostic process and found the following:

    1- The oil level was good and the oil was reasonably clean.

    2- Removed the oil filter and dumped it in a container to examine it. There were no metal chunks or major dirt. I put a magnet in the oil and did get a small amount of very, very fine metal..the type you find in the lower unit of an outboard after normal use. Figured that was okay. It was normal wear.

    3-Removed the valve covers and saw nothing out of the usual. There was no crud/sludge buildup like you would see on a "weathered engine".

    4- Cranked the engine and saw that all the valves and lifters were functionaing properly.

    5- Tried to start the engine but it backfired again so I disconnected the ignition coil wire and cranked it. Saw no oil coming up through where it should be coming after about 30seconds of cranking.

    6- Attached a pressure guage where the pressure switch was and cranked. No pressure or fluxuation whatsoever.

    Looks like I have either a failed oil pump or the oil pump pick up fell off and into the oil pan. Whatever it is its an oil problem. Talked with a mechanic who does crusader work and he said that if the engine was run for anytime without oil the price to rebuild the engine would be 75% of getting a new one. Looks like I may have to skip out on the rebuilding and either go with the other options. My season isn't looking too good at this point!

  3. #33
    Genesis Guest

    Still would probably rebuild....

    ... especially if you have to buy TWO new ones!

    Were it me, I'd pull 'em and take 'em home, and rebuild them myself in my GARAGE! Then cart them over to a dyno shop, have them checked out under full load for a while, and then reinstall.

    But that's me.... I'm funny like that, and my time is cheap and paying someone unknown is dear

  4. #34
    mike Guest

    rebuild 454's

    I agree with gensis, I have rebuilt too many 454's and small blocks to count. It's n big deal, parts are not too expensive, esp. if you don't get caught up in all the romance stuff that all the speed shops and marine shops want to sell you. The is a good HP book called rebuilding the big block that is a good refencence. Keep all the stock gm parts, run stock re-sized rods and stock clearences on the rod bearings and mains, use forged pistons and a good set of full zero gap rings. Regrind your existing valves/heads, use new springs and reuse the stock cam (or as stated in a previous msg,reharden, grind and reuse) and new lifters. Use a stock oil pump and weld/braze the pickup to the cap. DO-NOT use a high-volumn pump, they spray too much oil on the cylinder walls ....you don't need it. Mike MY"Finally"

  5. #35
    67HAT34C Guest

    ENGINE ISSUE

    WHAT YEAR ARE THE CRUSADERS, IF PRE 1990 THEN YOU MAY CONSIDER REBUILD. THESE ARE TRUCK BLOCKS WITH 4BOLT MAINS. VERY TOUGH ENGINS AND YOU CANT GET THEM ANYMORE. OTHERWISE CONSIDER NEW MPI BIG BLOCKS.

    I HAVE A PAIR OF MODEL 350'S IN MINE, INSTALLED 1988. VERY STRONG MOTORS, WE NOW CONVERTING TO ELECTRONIC IGNITION AND A FEW OTHER UPGRADES.

    IF YOU ARE IN FLORIDA, LET ME KNOW

    SHIER@AOL.COM

  6. #36
    adaily3224 Guest

    Re: ENGINE ISSUE

    Mike,

    You have so many opinions and options here, I thought I would give you one more.

    www.algroversmarine.com/

    This yard does quite a few re-powers, I believe he has take outs that are sold for a fair price. I guess it's worth checking out? Personally after 40 years in the automotive business I don't like old technology and shoddy rebuilds. Don't be confused by everyone else's opinion, you need to make up your own mind, if you want diesels get them, it's your boat.
    Lots of great ideas here, the only problem as I see it is time.
    Good Luck
    Tony D

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