Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

[solanderi]

It is a 1985 45 C that had the Forward port Skene Chock "Stainless Line Guide" that directs the dock line to the adjacent cleat had one of the 2
bolts securing it fail. The head of the slotted bolt sheared off leaving the remaining portion in its backing plate (from other posters on the HOF
I believe there is a threaded deck plate).

It appears to be a 1/4 inch bolt but i could be wrong. So I applied PB Blaster from the top, waited 15 mins, crawled into the Forward anchor locker
where i could see a 1 inch portion of said bolt protruding from the deck plate, gripped it with a vise grip and broke the bolt.

Now I have everything still the same as when I started this adventure but with the added complication of only a 1/4 inch nub of said bolt protruding
below the deck plate in the forward locker.

So can anyone please help me with a solution.

Thank you,

Greg
1985 45C

[davidwigler]

Drill a small hole in the bolt and use a bolt remover with a socket wrench.

[davidwigler]

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ece/535518_0_0

[solanderi]

As with all things boating, access is a bit challenging so the drilling a hole into the bolt may be a trick. I guess I can put the appropriate bit on a dremel to cut the hole for the bolt remover bit. Then apply the socket wrench.

Thank you,

I’ll post my results.

Greg

[SEVEN]

Go in from the top.

[Walter P]

Go in from the top.

If you have a dremel handy, you may want to try to use it to make a small dimple in the CENTER of
the broken bolt before you attempt to drill it out. It's important that the hole you drill does not go into
the threads of the bolt otherwise when you tap in the bolt extractor and try to turn it, it won't work.
If you're real lucky and have a left handed drill bit I would recommend you use it to make the hole. Some
times I have gotten lucky and had a broken bolt actually come out by only drilling it that way. After the
hole is drilled satisfactorily, tap the extractor into the hole in the bolt. At this point, I like to use a
ratcheting driver with it's impact action.

Frustrating? Yes but if all else fails you still have the option of just drilling the proper size tap hole for
the thread size and run the appropriate tap back in. If the threads are 1/4 x 20 use a #6 or 7 drill. If
it's 5/16 use a 1/4" drill bit followed by the 5/16 tap. I also like to tap using a cordless drill with the
tap firmly in the chuck.

After you succeed in removing the old broken bolt and/or re-tapping the new threads, be sure you
use a little "TefGel" on the threads first.

BTW, if you can access the bottom from the anchor locker, why not just use a bolt with a few washers
and a lock nut from underneath. Just drill out a complete through hole using the next size drill in your
drill index so you will have some space for the sealing caulk. Get a friend to hold the bolt from the
top and wrench away from the bottom. Don't be a gorilla and snap the bolt by over tightening.

Walt

Walt