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  1. #1

    Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    It is a 1985 45 C that had the Forward port Skene Chock "Stainless Line Guide" that directs the dock line to the adjacent cleat had one of the 2
    bolts securing it fail. The head of the slotted bolt sheared off leaving the remaining portion in its backing plate (from other posters on the HOF
    I believe there is a threaded deck plate).

    It appears to be a 1/4 inch bolt but i could be wrong. So I applied PB Blaster from the top, waited 15 mins, crawled into the Forward anchor locker
    where i could see a 1 inch portion of said bolt protruding from the deck plate, gripped it with a vise grip and broke the bolt.

    Now I have everything still the same as when I started this adventure but with the added complication of only a 1/4 inch nub of said bolt protruding
    below the deck plate in the forward locker.

    So can anyone please help me with a solution.

    Thank you,

    Greg
    1985 45C

  2. #2

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    Drill a small hole in the bolt and use a bolt remover with a socket wrench.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  3. #3

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  4. #4

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    As with all things boating, access is a bit challenging so the drilling a hole into the bolt may be a trick. I guess I can put the appropriate bit on a dremel to cut the hole for the bolt remover bit. Then apply the socket wrench.

    Thank you,

    I’ll post my results.

    Greg

  5. #5

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    Go in from the top.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  6. #6

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    Quote Originally Posted by SEVEN View Post
    Go in from the top.
    If you have a dremel handy, you may want to try to use it to make a small dimple in the CENTER of
    the broken bolt before you attempt to drill it out. It's important that the hole you drill does not go into
    the threads of the bolt otherwise when you tap in the bolt extractor and try to turn it, it won't work.
    If you're real lucky and have a left handed drill bit I would recommend you use it to make the hole. Some
    times I have gotten lucky and had a broken bolt actually come out by only drilling it that way. After the
    hole is drilled satisfactorily, tap the extractor into the hole in the bolt. At this point, I like to use a
    ratcheting driver with it's impact action.

    Frustrating? Yes but if all else fails you still have the option of just drilling the proper size tap hole for
    the thread size and run the appropriate tap back in. If the threads are 1/4 x 20 use a #6 or 7 drill. If
    it's 5/16 use a 1/4" drill bit followed by the 5/16 tap. I also like to tap using a cordless drill with the
    tap firmly in the chuck.

    After you succeed in removing the old broken bolt and/or re-tapping the new threads, be sure you
    use a little "TefGel" on the threads first.

    BTW, if you can access the bottom from the anchor locker, why not just use a bolt with a few washers
    and a lock nut from underneath. Just drill out a complete through hole using the next size drill in your
    drill index so you will have some space for the sealing caulk. Get a friend to hold the bolt from the
    top and wrench away from the bottom. Don't be a gorilla and snap the bolt by over tightening.

    Walt

    Walt

  7. #7

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    The slotted bolt ends up being a 3/8’s. I went to Home Depot and found 2 products, Speed Out and the other was just like what David recommended a bolt remover. So Speed Out vs Bolt Remover ? Any thoughts on that one please ? I will start from the top and see how that goes. Hopefully there is no epoxy or 5200 on the threads but it is what it is.

    After the broken bolt is removed, it makes me think that the slotted bolt head lends it self to stripping but that is what is used all over the boat on the other deck hardware so that’s what I will use again. I will remember, Tefgel and no gorillas. Thank you for all the recommendations and guidance.

    Greg

  8. #8

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    Good luck with this. I had to drill out all the bolts for the deck rail stanchions years ago; they were bronze and corroded in place, too wasted to remove; when I tried to turn them they broke off. I ended up drilling all of them out (there were thirty-six, I think, and it was wintertime) and when it was warmer, putting a plasti straw in each hole and pouring epoxy and silica in around the straw, then retapping each hole. Reinstalled them, possibly with TefGel. Years later I had to take them out for a paint job and they came out nice and easily.

  9. #9

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    Hi Jim,

    I have drilled a hole and gold ribbons of metal appeared so I believe I have struck Bronze instead of stainless. The Bolt out tool has not budged the broken bolt yet.

    Did you replace with Bronze hardware ? West Marine only has stainless with a Phillips head instead of a slotted or flat head. What do you think ?

    Thank you,

    Greg

  10. #10

    Re: Stainless Line Guide "Skene Chock" bolt failure

    I replaced mine with SS square drive the West Marine sells.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

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