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  1. #1

    '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    The mystery: 2-piece window glass (one slides) mounted in aluminum frame which includes the outside trim (app. 3 "). The glass sections will not lift high enough in the tracks to allow for removal by pulling the bottoms out. THE FRAME, INCLUDING OUTSIDE TRIM,IS ALL ONE PIECE WITH NO VISIBLE MEANS OF DISMANTLING! Anybody know the secret? I'm grateful for all advice. Del.

  2. #2

    Re: '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    I had to use a bottle jack on a couple of my frames to get clearance.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  3. #3

    Re: '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    On my 31C used a bottle jack and 1X2's on both sides to get them to slide to the center. One side was replaced at some point in it's life, the other side was probably original. It took most of a weekend to get enough crud out to move them. I was amazed to find all 4 were pretty much the exact same size, but had 2 cut 1/8 shorter for the sliders. Sams does have the channel for the forward glass, mine were missing but did find one in random parts to get matched. Cut the new ones to be just a bit longer to support the center sag a bit, should help with the slider and keep extra pressure off the stationary.

  4. #4

    Re: '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    Heres a few track Pics
    Attached Images

  5. #5

    Re: '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    I did this job on my Hatteras years ago. Thoroughly unpleasant. I probably should do it again, but I really don't want to. Maybe in the winter.

  6. #6

    Re: '69 41 twin cabin. Removal of cracked salon windows, port side.

    Memories!

    The bottle jack suggestion is the easiest method for spreading the window frame apart to enable the removal of the two windows. Once you have the windows out you should replace the weatherstripping "fir" and if necessary also replace the plastic glide strips on the bottom of the window tracks.

    I did all my windows seven years ago and found, after the first window, it fairly easy to do. I found that there was a "starter slot" opening near the end on each strait run of the window frame to remove and start the weather stripping “fur" (another Canadian"ism").

    For those of you about to try this fun piece of maintenance I found that using "needle nose” and “curved needle nosed” pliers to pull the fur back into the track worked the best. You can also use hemostats if you have access to them. Dental Picks are a must as well.
    Once you remove the old weather stripping fur and plastic glides thoroughly clean all the tracks with an old tooth brush and soapy water. This made reinstalling the plastic guides and weather stripping fur easier.
    The balsa wood “stopper blocks” were probably original in all the sliding Hatteras windows. Security as well as ensuring the window did not open accidently in rough seas would appear to be the rational to reinstall them. I suspect that over the years as PO's have tackled this maintenance job they found trying to reinstall the balsa wood blocks the real challenge as you are trying to “blindly” screw them back into (two holes?) in the upper track. I manage to achieve this task in three of my four sliding windows. The fourth window still eludes my ability to find the holes (no jokes please).

    I enjoy the forum and the extensive knowledge the contributors are willing to share!

    Mark
    Lake of the Woods
    1989 40 DC.

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