InjectaDeck new product? For soft decks

[krush]

A guy I know fixing up a Luhr's he bought cheap told me about this stuff: https://injectadeck.com/

I don't have a soft deck on the Hatt, but I may try it on some of my other clunker boats.

Injectadeck is a carefully engineered structural marine foam and adhesive that cures hard as wood, quickly and easily repairing soft spots on your boat’s fiberglass deck caused by rot of the underlying core. Injectadeck saves you from having to peel up your deck and replace it – costing thousands of dollars and weeks or months of time. With Injectadeck, your deck can be fixed in a single afternoon – Really!

Injectadeck is exactly what it sounds like – you drill a few holes in the deck, inject the two-part product into the holes, and it quickly expands to fill the void left by rot, making your deck strong, solid, and stable once again. It is water-catalytic and becomes more adhesive when it contacts moisture, absorbing wood pulp and adhering to the fiberglass layers. Traditional adhesives (epoxy, etc.) simply cannot do this. Injectadeck requires just a few holes to be drilled and is even known to reverse moisture meter tests by displacing and absorbing moisture inside the deck

Injectadeck is not meant for tiny soft spots, it is meant for significant soft sections of decks, even areas that feel like they will break through soon. Injectadeck has saved decks that actually tear and sound like ripping cloth when you walk on them. Injectadeck needs only a void or mold to contain it. If the area you plan to repair has a rip in it you can patch the rip first and create the mold.

Overview – the Injectadeck repair: Drilling a hole at the low point of the 2 ply fiberglass sandwich, or in the rear bilge hatch on the underside of the deck will allow excess water to drain out of your boat’s deck. Then, on top of the deck you drill holes through the top layer of fiberglass and just the wood (not through the bottom fiberglass layer) and inject the foam down into the void. Injectadeck will travel along the surface filling the spaces. Once you’ve pumped a shot in, you wait a few min and then can then gently step on the area and shape/distribute the foam if a bulge has developed since it has another 5-minute work time. After 20 min you can “stomp-shape” it. The foam hardens after 30 min. Gassing stops in 12 hrs. Next step is to fill the deck holes then paint new deck texture on to complete the repair. Done!

Injectadeck can be used two ways:

To “Skim” heavy gauge (filling between the wood and upper layer of fiberglass) or,
“Fill the “UnderVoid”, between the wood and only the lower fiberglass layers (best).

Note – On the thin fiberglass decks of powerboats “skimming” above the wood is not recommended since it can create bulging. Injection under the wood, to fill the rotted-out voids is best for restoring the original supportive feel. Injectadeck is water catalytic and when the process is performed properly with drain holes for displaced water you can often pass a marine survey moisture meter test where it previously failed!

https://injectadeck.com/product-features/

[SEVEN]

Whose had experience with this product? What was your findings and recommendations?

[krush]

Another on the cheap repair idea. Gorilla glue! https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...tions-rot.html

[Seapig100]

I know it says you don’t need to get the water out but I am skeptical, maybe that’s because I just did my deck the hard way.

[Photolomy]

I have been following these discussions and googled quite a bit because I have a soft spot on the bow. The reviews seem to fall into two categories. People who have used it and are happy with the results, and people who have not used it and say it is a horrible idea.

Cutting and peeling off top skin that is in perfect condition just doesn't appeal to me. I haven't made a call yet, that won't happen till it gets cooler, but I am leaning towards epoxy rather than cutting up the deck.

[Seapig100]

This appears to be closed cell foam. If it works you will be very happy with it, if it does not you will have a big mess on your hands to fix.

[Briankinley2004]

I emailed the Injectadeck company a couple of years ago when looking at a boat with a soft core near the anchor pulpit. They told me it was not structural and didn't think it would work if I used the area for holding the anchor. The windlass is supposed to be for pulling not tying the anchor off to but none the less I backed off this stuff for that application. I thought about trying it on a soft spot in the bridge but still haven't found anyone that has used the stuff that wasn't promoting the product

[Photolomy]

I haven't decided on Injectadeck, there are other products out there, but here is an actual user of Injectadeck...

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...ra-tips-2.html

It looks like it is legit for basic repairs. In my case, I guess I would have to look closer at the how the pulpit is connected to the boat. Also, I would come up from underneath, which I have seen written about here by others. If I were inclined to drill a bunch of holes in the top side, I'd just as soon cut and peel it instead and replace the core. But the object is to not have to mess with the topside.

[Briankinley2004]

Interesting. I am curious about how it is 5 years from now. Guess time will tell.

[jim rosenthal]

Well, there ARE water-catalyzed two-part urethane foams, so maybe it does work. I think the problem would be that if there is water still in there, the adjacent core would continue to decay, wouldn't it?