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  1. #11

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    Quote Originally Posted by boatwright View Post
    I use a piece of wood that spans the portlight on the in side of the boat spaced off by a block that is atleast slightly thicker then the port sticks out from the hull.there should be no contact on the port itself on the inside, on the outside a piece or wood spans the port pressing on the spigot. reach through the port with 2 c clamps and tighten them snug. tap in wooden wedges around the port [8] is a good number. go around the port tapping in the wedges and tightening the clamps like your tightening a engine head. if things get hard take a break and let the tension work .you will of course have removed the trim ring and cut the caulk has best you can. when installing the new port apply caulk to both the cabinside and the port evenly so there will be total bond with no air trap voids.the next part is alittle different to some people.,you are making a gasket with the caulk that will give but not fail when the boat and port expand and contract at different rates.a thicker gasket will flex more then a paper thin gasket which you will have if you over tighten. I will stop when still a distance to go 1/16 or so or I will use small o rings on the fasteners between the port and hull. like all things on a boat the best method is what works for you. good luck
    Thanks, I'll make sure to caulk as advised :-)

    Kristian

  2. #12

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    Quote Originally Posted by MadHatter53 View Post
    Having a piece of piano wire or guitar string could come in handy and also a heat gun.
    I'll bring the heat gun - good advice :-)

    The guitar is on the boat already! :-)

    Thanks!
    Kristian

  3. #13

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    You may not want to replace them at all.

    My dad bought a 1975 43DC in 1978. When he got it, many of the edges of the portlights were chipped or broken off. He had the yard, cut all of them flush with the trim ring and paint them with Hatteras off-white Imron. It looked like a new boat and no replacing of anything.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  4. #14

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    A follow on to Sky’s comment you can also remove all the outside screws, fill the holes and then paint. These trim rings were put on with 5200 at the factory I think. I did this a few years ago and it looks great. John
    Mahalo V
    1974 53 Motoryacht
    Hull Number 406
    San Diego, Ca. Ready 32 Nordic Tug, Brunswick Ga.

  5. #15

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    Quote Originally Posted by SKYCHENEY View Post
    You may not want to replace them at all.

    My dad bought a 1975 43DC in 1978. When he got it, many of the edges of the portlights were chipped or broken off. He had the yard, cut all of them flush with the trim ring and paint them with Hatteras off-white Imron. It looked like a new boat and no replacing of anything.
    mine are all cut flush and painted, not sure who did it as it was this way when i got her.. less stuff sticking out to get hung up or break is a good thing in my book
    Mis b' havin
    1972 58 yachtfish
    58yf352
    pass christian, ms.

  6. #16

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    I think a couple at least needs replacing... See pic. But good tip 👍
    Attached Images

  7. #17

    Re: Replacing portlight - tip

    Just a little bondo and some paint and those would be good as new. Lol
    Mahalo V
    1974 53 Motoryacht
    Hull Number 406
    San Diego, Ca. Ready 32 Nordic Tug, Brunswick Ga.

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