Replacing main engine seacocks

[Texastailboard]

I sometimes go against the “marine grade” specifications but that doesn’t mean I will skimp on safety or longevity. Yes it bothers me that a boat yard will charge marine prices for things at times that should be reevaluated. We might own yachts but that doesn’t mean we are all made of money. I have found some short cuts are helpful but some items are designed for salt water and a seacock is definitely something that has to be marine grade category. Not only the specks are different on the threads but the design is for the severe environmental it is in.

[dsharp]

I believe they are tapered. I tried to pop them loose using a socket over the threads and backing the nut off. This created a puller of sorts and it did not budge. It will be difficult to strick it cleanly with a hammer because of the engine rails. I am willing to give this another opportunity just not sure I am going about it the right way.

The big end of the taper should be on the handle side. Can you loosen the nut then hold a heavy back up on the body them hit the other side. I would wait until you haul out then remove and rebuild or replace. Take the time and do it right.

[Seapig100]

I have decided to replace the seacocks. The seacocks are 3 inch valves and I got a 2 quotes to replace them today. First quote is for full flow valves the second quote is standard flow. I am assuming that a standard 3 inch valve will flow more then enough water, is this assumption correct? Also is it worth the extra money for the full flow build quality? My two options are Groco BV bronze full flow model# gro-bv-3000 or Groco fbv model # gro-fbv-3000. Thanks for the advice.

[Boatsb]

You know the answer. Theres no need to ask it. Always use full flow. Always use the best quality available. It's not a bay liner.

[jim rosenthal]

I agree. There is no such thing as too much cooling capacity for a marine engine. It will take what it needs- if there is enough seawater coming through the system.

I realize we are spending a lot of your money, but in this instance, go for the best you can find. It's well worth it.

[Photolomy]

They seem to both be full flow, but what is the difference between FBV and BV? Other than one is twice as much.

[Seapig100]

You know the answer. Theres no need to ask it. Always use full flow. Always use the best quality available. It's not a bay liner.

Yes you are right I do understand water flow and IMO 300 gallons a minute would be more then adequate to cool an engine. But that’s just my opinion it’s not based on any experience or knowledge. As far as quality I have absolutely no clue what the difference is between the two valves. I have read the information on Groco’s site but to me a seacocks a seacock. So here I am looking for the advice of others that may have a clue and be willing to share their knowledge. If the answer is I should spend the extra money so be it I will, but I find it prudent to ask before shelling out the money.

[dsharp]

It looks like the fbv is a lighter duty valve with a stamped steel handle and the fv has a cast bronze handle. I'm sure their are other differences as well. Not really a place to try to save money. Kind of like exhaust risers.

[Photolomy]

I looked at the two valves in more detail. The BV valve does have a couple upgraded parts, as dsharp noted, but in terms of design, the BV and FBV seem very similar. However, the BV unit can be fully disassembled and rebuilt while still on the boat, and the replacement parts are relatively inexpensive. So, in terms of features, the BV is certainly the nicer valve. Retail (at Jamestown) the FBV is $388 and the BV is $699. These prices are almost 1/2 the listed prices on the Groco site. In any event, the USCG requires the serviceable (BV) series for inspected vessels (vessels that carry more than 6 paying passengers).

Personally, if my boat came with FBV valves, I would be totally fine, but if I was buying the valves, I would go with the BV version. I do read about stuck valves, and the ability to service them seems significant.

Btw, all of the Groco seacocks have grease fittings. Do the ones that came with our boats have them? I haven't really looked at them close enough yet. And if so, do you guys use them? Seems like that would keep them operable forever. Regardless of the series.

[whoover]

Hello, I have Groco strainers with grease fittings, I'm in fresh water but give them a pump of grease each spring. I also carry a full set of replacement seals for each valve. I have found the o rings to be a use once item, after reassembly with the old o rings I always have an air leak and no water flow. Also the Groco customer service has always been great, they were very helpful in getting me the model number for my seacocks when I could not find any documentation on the boat.

Walt Hoover