Replacing main engine seacocks

[jim rosenthal]

X2 on Groco service. They back up everything they sell. Full disc, they are a local outfit in MD but even if they were not, I would still use and recommend their stuff.

[Seapig100]

Parts ordered thanks for all the help.

[jim rosenthal]

Take some before and after photos. If you don't mind. Documenting big jobs on your boat esp the ones that add value to it is a good idea. I think this kind of thing adds value. Others may not agree.

[Seapig100]

I removed the old frozen seacocks along with the dwv vent pipe that was getting pretty thin. I am glad I decided to tackle this project this year because I am now realizing how bad this was. I also learned of what I think is a new problem (to me) but more on that in another thread.The dwv pipe was threaded into the valve with a short section of copper tube soldered to it. There was also, a copper 90 that had two short pieces of 3 inch tube soldered into each end it. The purpose of the short sections of copper tube was so he could connect it to the rubber hose. So instead of a barbed connector gripping the hoses, it was perfectly smooth. This entire setup was 3 inches in diameter, and the raw water intake on the back of the engine is only 2 3/4 inches in diameter. I bet you can figure out what that connection looked like. I called jamesTown distributors today and fixed the order my new 3 inch valves will be here in a few days along with with 3 inch to 2 1/2 inche bushings and 2 1/2 thread to 2 3/4 barbed. This was the only way groco could get me to 2 3/4 to match the engines. JamesTown was also able to get 2 3/4 raw water hose for me. I decided to also change out the AC thru hulls so I ordered those also. I spoke with Patrick at Groco for about a half hour and he explained to me in great detail exactly how to reinstall the new valves including what adhesives to use. He gave me the part numbers for everything I needed to complete the job. Here are the old valves ready for the scrap yard.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I removed the old frozen seacocks along with the dwv vent pipe that was getting pretty thin. I am glad I decided to tackle this project this year because I am now realizing how bad this was. I also learned of what I think is a new problem (to me) but more on that in another thread.The dwv pipe was threaded into the valve with a short section of copper tube soldered to it. There was also, a copper 90 that had two short pieces of 3 inch tube soldered into each end it. The purpose of the short sections of copper tube was so he could connect it to the rubber hose. So instead of a barbed connector gripping the hoses, it was perfectly smooth. This entire setup was 3 inches in diameter, and the raw water intake on the back of the engine is only 2 3/4 inches in diameter. I bet you can figure out what that connection looked like. I called jamesTown distributors today and fixed the order my new 3 inch valves will be here in a few days along with with 3 inch to 2 1/2 inche bushings and 2 1/2 thread to 2 3/4 barbed. This was the only way groco could get me to 2 3/4 to match the engines. JamesTown was also able to get 2 3/4 raw water hose for me. I decided to also change out the AC thru hulls so I ordered those also. I spoke with Patrick at Groco for about a half hour and he explained to me in great detail exactly how to reinstall the new valves including what adhesives to use. He gave me the part numbers for everything I needed to complete the job. Here are the old valves ready for the scrap yard.

Hall of Shame material

[kelpy]

Those seacocks can be taken apart, cleaned up and relapped to äs new"condition with a few hours of labor and simple hand tools.

[Seapig100]

I would need all the details I am not against doing that. Will I need parts for them?

[kelpy]

Simplified, clean up the exterior with some dilute muriatic acid to get rid of the green, remove the end cap and knock the cone out of the body with a mallet without boogering up anything. Lightly clean up the bore and cone with 800 wet or dry paper but don't remove too much. Use some fine (0000) water based lapping compound and lap the cone to the bore until it just cleans up - no more. 80 - 90 % cleanup should be sufficient. Clean the bore and cone throughly with soap and water and then clean them again. Lightly coat the bore and cone with a good (not cheap) marine waterproof grease and reassemble. Exercise the valve each month to keep it operating freely. During the next haul out, disassemble, clean and relube. They will outlast you if taken care of. Don't forget the bonding wire.

[jim rosenthal]

SP, spray the new ones with Corrosion-X, the pump spray kind in the red bottle, and they will not turn green. Do it yearly. You’ll be amazed. The stuff really works well.

[jim rosenthal]

Those were good valves when they were installed. If you don’t want to go to the trouble, someone else might refurb them. But since you are replacing them, I would put cleaning those up low on your priority list.