Yacht Fish Exhaust Leak

[oscarvan]

I did a similar repair to my 53 MY and yes the exhaust is below the water line.

I bought an expansion plug (8" diameter) designed for pressure testing on drain pipes during new construction and for building plumbing inspections. I bought the plug from McMaster Carr for $43. You can buy the same type plug from any commercial plumbing supply store. I put the plug in from the swim platform tightened the expansion bolt. Zero water leaks in the boat during the repairs.

Some folks use these plugs during the winter to keep the cold air and moisture from blowing up in the exhaust system during long term storage.

Here's the link.
They have other sizes as well.

https://www.mcmaster.com/2645k48

Beat me to it. Works like a charm.

And to the OP..... PLEASE put a new hose on it, and do it right. While you're at it do the other side too. Remember rule #1..... "Keep the water out of the boat.# If this was mine it would be on my mind every second we were underway.

[Pascal]

This is what 40+ year old hose looks like

[Westfield 11]

My 53 exhaust openings are about 2” below the waterline. No way to service with out lifting out of the water or dealing the opening

Could you put one of those inflatable fenders in the exhaust and then pump it up? If the inside of the fiberglass tube is intact and smooth enough, you should get a decent seal.

[MASTERPLAN MIAMI]

RUM'min AROUND. UpdateWhat's it been like for the first 6 weeks? A lot of running around getting parts and doing repairs. But, in this video, we mention some of what we've learned living aboard.Not to mention, I'm learning a lot about the boat because of all the things wrong with it. On the positive side, because I'v learned so much, I feel a lot more confident driving this beast. Remember, my experience has been limited to a 24 ft sea ray. Our next video will show some of the projects I've had to tackle so far.https://youtu.be/j7dqQNRqGxs

[SEVEN]

I agree with replacing the hoses and clamps but for a temporary fix clean and rap this tape around the leak area and go out about 3” on both sides. It will hold until you haul out. I have a friend that used this on exhaust leak two years ago and it’s still holding on.

[Cricket]

I would replace the old hose with fiberglass exhaust tube and use hose for the connections only, that would be new hose, not the 40 year old stuff. I also like 4 hose clamps for each union..

[Top Hatt Craig]

This is what 40+ year old hose looks like

Hello Pascal, before making your repairs did your exhaust flow seem to be interrupted while at idle, momentarily quite then a burp with normal sound resumed? If it did is it steady now? Regards, Craig

[johnjen50]

On. Y Yachtfish the exhaust is several inches below the waterline. So yes if you take that hose off without plugging it you will take on water.

[bigbill]

first hand experience here....i had this happen on my yf. if you blend all of the posts above you will be fine. i keep a small ball fender on board for exactly this. plug exhaust from the outside with the ball fender, remove clamps, cut old hose with a razor knife and prepare for some water to come out. you will probably have to cut some of the fiberglass exhaust tube off of both ends of the joint so you can fit the new hose on(hatteras put the glass tubes about an inch apart) you will want to get 2 crush sleeves and 4 new clamps(anything below the water line should be double clamped) cut the new blue silicone hose about 8 inches longer than the gap between the fiberglass tubes, mark the glass tube so you will know how far the hose is on each tube. put the sleeves in place, slide the hose on to one side far enough to get it lined up with the other tube, slide it the other way until it has about 4 inches on each tube, double clamp and you are done. you may want to use some dish washing liquid to make the hose slide easier.

[MASTERPLAN MIAMI]

Thank you all. I plan on plugging with a ball and replacing as described in the last comment. Thanks again.