I'm considering DIY overhauling both 8v71Ti's in our 58' YF!!

[scottinsydney]

Try this company’s products first. In particular their Oil Flush and also FTC fuel additive.

www.costeffective.com.au

They have an American distributor. I’ve always used these two products on my four DDs over the past 16 years.

Plenty of other testimonials on the website. There is actually a testimonial from a DD boat owner with engine symptoms similar to yours.

Definitely not snake oil. For a couple of hundred dollars you may save thousands.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

For a frame of reference, my neighbor is needing the top ends of his 1271ti’s done. After paying $20k to the Detroit dealer here for new injectors, the dealer bid $57k for the job. I’m not able to say what else that might include. They did include a 4 hour charge in the estimate to determine what parts would be required which didn’t sit well. Dealer claims both in-frame builds could be completed in four days. They must have a 24 hour machine shop to make that claim.

[Pascal]

Mario, if you pull them out this is what you ll be looking at...

These guys were pretty good ... Luis can work out of various yards. He s great with shafts alignments thru hulls etc

https://youtu.be/nvjsv4KzCb8

[rsmith]

First thing I would do is pull the air box covers and check the ring tension. I would bet that most of these MY engines are not worn out or tired but have stuck or broken rings from sitting and lack of use. I rebuilt both my 12’s myself after 10,000 hours of hard canyon and charter use and found the main bearings and crank journals measured almost to new specs. People on this fourm go way overboard and do knee jerk stuff when it’s unneeded. Unless the engines were overheated or run out of oil I wouldn’t even mess with long blocks.
Fix what’s wrong and run it!

[dottieshusband]

First thing I would do is pull the air box covers and check the ring tension. I would bet that most of these MY engines are not worn out or tired but have stuck or broken rings from sitting and lack of use. I rebuilt both my 12’s myself after 10,000 hours of hard canyon and charter use and found the main bearings and crank journals measured almost to new specs. People on this fourm go way overboard and do knee jerk stuff when it’s unneeded. Unless the engines were overheated or run out of oil I wouldn’t even mess with long blocks.
Fix what’s wrong and run it!

+1 for what he said. My main and rod bearings were as new. Cross hatching still visable on the liners, but the valves were a different story. You can get a remanufactured head or get yours reworked with new valves for 4k or so, another 1.5k for remanufactured injectors, labor, poor man's rebuild.

[jim rosenthal]

Mario, I apologize if someone's already said this, but perhaps you should get an engine survey first, and find out what they need? Perhaps they only need cylinder kits and heads Maybe the main bearings and bottom ends are okay?

[Avenger]

Ditto all of the above. You owe it to yourself to go through the diagnostics before you pull the pin.

It would sure stink to pull the kits and find out the problem was something less.

[madhatter1]

First thing I would do is pull the air box covers and check the ring tension. I would bet that most of these MY engines are not worn out or tired but have stuck or broken rings from sitting and lack of use. I rebuilt both my 12’s myself after 10,000 hours of hard canyon and charter use and found the main bearings and crank journals measured almost to new specs. People on this fourm go way overboard and do knee jerk stuff when it’s unneeded. Unless the engines were overheated or run out of oil I wouldn’t even mess with long blocks.
Fix what’s wrong and run it!

When I bought my first DD boat, a 73 46 Bertram MY in 2002 with 8-71TI's I knew nothing about them. Asked around and I had many point me in the direction of some old time DD pro's still in the field.

One thing I got over and over was how stout these are and how well they will still perform even if hurting. Take Rsmiths advice and look further into them before assuming they are done.

I have nearly new 8-92's now and even then still nervous about how long will they last. Bet I am pushing up Daisey's long before they give up the ghost as long as no overheats occur.

Nothing to lose by checking.

[MarioG]

I agree, it is a good idea to look deeper. It would be a nice to find a simpler problem that would be easier to fix. But all of this discussion is also very good to formulate a plan of action as well as options.

[johnjen50]

Mario, these guys are probably right. In my case the intercooler sprung a leak, sprayed the inside of the engine with salt water, and seized over the winter layup. I have a ton of pics that I will try and upload soon. Everything from what it looked like when I took off the blower and air box covers, to the fork lift with VERY LONG forks that plucked it off the back deck after we rolled the engine through the salon out to the back deck. I pulled just the engine, and stripped it of exhaust and blower turbos etc.....the heavy stuff so I didn’t need to support the floor from the underneath. It’s a big job, but I had “loose” quotes of $15-$25 for a rebuild in frame. I decided I would spend the money on the essentially new block and heads and go forward with a new engine that I would maintain from day one. Mario if you pm me I can email you a bulk load. I took pics of everything as I took it off the old engine so I would remember orientation when reassembling. In 5 or 6 years I can retire, and figured I wanted fresh power so I could be confident taking the boat south to the keys and Bahamas. These engines really are well designed and with a little time and study you could probably fix most problems yourself. No sensors or electronics to worry about. And I think if you could run them fairly regularly they probably would run forever. So if I were you and it wasn’t seized I would check the air box covers and rings first. But, depending on cost, the long block is exactly the same block on the same footprint with essentially new cranks and vitals. They actually need your engine serial number to make sure they set up exactly the same engine on the new block.