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  1. #61

    Re: Master head won't drain

    I have not applied the snake from the tank side yet. Will do that tomorrow. I have a depstech camera. Was hoping not to getting it all sh*tty. My set up has the discharge lines going directly into the black water tank, 3 lines, 3 heads, and a fourth which is the vent.

    The discharge overboard and to the pump out is through a 2" dip tube exiting the tank and splitting, one leg to the overboard through a pump and the other to the pump out, so it is independent of the head discharge lines.

    I left 20lbs on the line yesterday. I guess I see if it holds for 48 hours. Sort of gun shy increasing the pressure as 60 lbs split the line last time. It split it at what I thought was a barb fitting, however when I cut it out, the PO had taken a short piece of 1" smooth copper pipe and used it as a connector. I wonder if that weakened the hose.

    The discharge lines come out in the generator room below and next to the isolation transformers along side the stringer, then it wraps up and over the stringer after exiting the bulk head making up the generator wall, and finally into the black water tank.

    The solids that came back on the snake were porous, almost looked like peat. Not much of that any way.

    I am going to try and insert a 1/2" hose tied to a vac tomorrow to see if I can evacuate any liquid between the clog and the outlet. The thinking is the acid is getting diluted by standing water and reducing its efficacy.

    Side Note: I wonder if the 1.5" PVC pipe running behind the washer dryer is the conduit mentioned in an earlier post. Don't see where it exits on either end.

    mark

  2. #62

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Unless one of the POs changed your system, I'm hard pressed to believe the heads run directly to the tank. The usual set up is the bowl to the vented loop to the through hull where it can be diverted overboard with going into the tank or to the tank when the valve is closed. .

    Calcification at the through hulls was the final issue with mine which I just got cleared up a couple weeks ago.

  3. #63

    Re: Master head won't drain

    From the vented loop it disappears under the engine room floor. I guess I'll poke around generator floor to see if I can find the valves you speak of.

  4. #64

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Do you have any of the drawings/prints for the boat? It will show you where the through hulls are and simplify your search. If you don't, I'm sure a member here will have them and can look it up for you.

  5. #65

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Update:Traced down the lines and found the through hulls under the generator floor. Snaked the line in the opposite direction and encountered calcified plug about 3' in. Broke through with snake hooked to an electric drill. Poured phosphoric acid and let set all day. Attached pressurized air and it confirmed line was at least partially open. Flushed with water through line into a bucket disgorging broken calcified pieces. Water now flowed freely through the line.Reconnected to tank and am happy to state head appears to work much better than when we purchased.Thank you to all who lent their expertise to the project. Just another reason why this group makes owning a Hatteras a great boating experienceThanks againMark

  6. #66

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Thanks for the update. We all learn from these issues.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  7. #67

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Happy ending. You might want to consider treating it again to get it all. The deposits will build back up sooner if you leave a base behind. Then treat with white vinegar overnight twice yearly.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  8. #68

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Unfortunately, I’m jumping on this thread. I am back in Seattle to start working the punch list. Already fixed several light fixtures so all the lights are working. But two of the three heads are inoperable. They do not evacuate the bowl. Tried muriatic acid overnight with no success. Also tried multiple attempts with the plunger. Still no success. To make it worse, I can’t find anyone in the Seattle area that has any knowledge of the galley maid heads. Since I don’t want to spend several thousand dollars putting new heads in at this time, with your help I am about to become an expert on galley maid heads. I assume the next step is to replace the rotor and stater. So I know I will need to shut the intake valve. But how do you evacuate the mess that’s in the large discharge hose on the front of the pump? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Bob
    Bob Leland
    1980 58' Yachtfish Hull#473
    Seattle,Wa / Phoenix, Az

  9. #69

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Quote Originally Posted by Leland View Post
    Unfortunately, I’m jumping on this thread. I am back in Seattle to start working the punch list. Already fixed several light fixtures so all the lights are working. But two of the three heads are inoperable. They do not evacuate the bowl. Tried muriatic acid overnight with no success. Also tried multiple attempts with the plunger. Still no success. To make it worse, I can’t find anyone in the Seattle area that has any knowledge of the galley maid heads. Since I don’t want to spend several thousand dollars putting new heads in at this time, with your help I am about to become an expert on galley maid heads. I assume the next step is to replace the rotor and stater. So I know I will need to shut the intake valve. But how do you evacuate the mess that’s in the large discharge hose on the front of the pump? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Bob
    I'd use a shop vac to suction out the bowls.

    It sounds like you aren't in a position to judge if you've got clogged lines or worn out pumps. Generally, a full bowl will drain gradually to the trap level unless there's a stoppage someplace. Be certain your valves are set up properly.

    Re the pump, in most cases, the rotor is fine. But beware of plastic rotors. The rotor may have material wrapped around it that can be cleared. It's the stator that generally needs replacing. Don't forget to order a seal kit while you've got it apart.

    So if the bowl will not drain at all, you are most likely looking at stopped up lines. Remember a plunger won't work here like it does at home, but they are still useful. With these systems, gently plunge downward then jerk upwards to try and dislodge solids toward you.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  10. #70

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Thanks Robert. Just talked with Raz and they suggest isolating the pump function by disconnecting the 1” discharge hose and hooking up a temp to run to a bucket and see if it will pump out the bowl. If it does - voila - it’s in the line. So I’m off to pick up a length of hose and do the test. Wish me luck.Bob
    Bob Leland
    1980 58' Yachtfish Hull#473
    Seattle,Wa / Phoenix, Az

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