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  1. #1

    Master head won't drain

    The master head won't drain. It fills up and then over a few days slowly drains to empty. I have run a few gallons of CLR into the bowl with no success. Just poured a gallon a muriatic acid into the bowl, don't know if its drained through or not as I had to leave.

    Looks like 2" PVC piped with 90 angles under tub into engine room up to galley maid pump on starboard side engine room floor. Then through a 1" line with a siphon loop, disappears through floor along strake and re-appears in genny room to black water tank.

    If I attached a line to the existing 1" line, what could I force through it to de-calcify or unclog if that is where the issue is?

    Sky mentions that the old line is held up with cushion clamps every 1', so yanking it out would be a major PITA even if you could access it all. So it the procedure to abandon in place and pull through another line?

    Was thinking about replacing galley maid with a new Atlantis Freedom. I'm thinking that if I have to spend $500 having it rebuilt, better $1k for new. Anyone have any experience with these?

    thx

  2. #2

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Have you tried changing out the stators? 80.00 for both if you do it yourself.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  3. #3

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Quote Originally Posted by Chasemmc View Post
    The master head won't drain. It fills up and then over a few days slowly drains to empty. I have run a few gallons of CLR into the bowl with no success. Just poured a gallon a muriatic acid into the bowl, don't know if its drained through or not as I had to leave.

    Looks like 2" PVC piped with 90 angles under tub into engine room up to galley maid pump on starboard side engine room floor. Then through a 1" line with a siphon loop, disappears through floor along strake and re-appears in genny room to black water tank.

    If I attached a line to the existing 1" line, what could I force through it to de-calcify or unclog if that is where the issue is?

    Sky mentions that the old line is held up with cushion clamps every 1', so yanking it out would be a major PITA even if you could access it all. So it the procedure to abandon in place and pull through another line?

    Was thinking about replacing galley maid with a new Atlantis Freedom. I'm thinking that if I have to spend $500 having it rebuilt, better $1k for new. Anyone have any experience with these?

    thx

    I purchased my boat 8 years ago with Atlantis Freedoms. I have one on salt water and one on fresh water. Not a single issue in all that time.


    Art
    Trouble
    43DCFB DC-306
    AYC NY

  4. #4

    Re: Master head won't drain

    For the Atlantis Freedom heads take a look at this document. It tells you what to try in the event they will not drain. They are not as straight forward as the Galley Maid or Vacuflush designs.

    http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/.../L345v0911.pdf
    Tim
    1979 53' MY Hull #566
    KNOW PRESSURE
    Hampton, Virginia

  5. #5

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Use plunger to check for blockage. Trick with GM system is use and munger to pull rather than push. Push down then jerk upwards to pull any clog back up. Order s stator and a seal kit. Make you understand whether you have and old/new style pump mount. Unless you have a clog, you’re done.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
    Charleston, SC

  6. #6

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Don't know if yours is PVC all the way to the pump coupling or not, but this really is a simple DIY, routine maintenance fix. Disconnect the suction hose from the big end at the pump. If you get free flow from the bowl to the pump, it's not a clog. If it is a clog, as mentioned, use a plunger... In my experience, somebody has usually sent cloth or string down the head and its wrapped around the macerator blade, or the rubber bellows has given up. Remove the 8 or so bolts holding the pump end housing on, you can't pull the housing straight off because of the macerator blade, BUT there are a couple of gaps in the inside housing casting, so when the housing is rotated to allow the gaps to line up with the blade, Shazam, it'll come off. The rotor (with blade attached) will unscrew from its threaded arbor...(I use a long thin screwdriver to lock the armature from spinning) even if it's just junk around the macerator blade, I replace the rubber stator cup anyway. AND don't chew your fingernails or pick your nose during this process...you'll be in a nasty place.

  7. #7

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Thanks everyone. This will be Sunday's project. I'll keep you in the poop, oh I meant loop regards the result.

  8. #8

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Quote Originally Posted by dottieshusband View Post
    Don't know if yours is PVC all the way to the pump coupling or not, but this really is a simple DIY, routine maintenance fix. Disconnect the suction hose from the big end at the pump. If you get free flow from the bowl to the pump, it's not a clog. If it is a clog, as mentioned, use a plunger... In my experience, somebody has usually sent cloth or string down the head and its wrapped around the macerator blade, or the rubber bellows has given up. Remove the 8 or so bolts holding the pump end housing on, you can't pull the housing straight off because of the macerator blade, BUT there are a couple of gaps in the inside housing casting, so when the housing is rotated to allow the gaps to line up with the blade, Shazam, it'll come off. The rotor (with blade attached) will unscrew from its threaded arbor...(I use a long thin screwdriver to lock the armature from spinning) even if it's just junk around the macerator blade, I replace the rubber stator cup anyway. AND don't chew your fingernails or pick your nose during this process...you'll be in a nasty place.
    Isn't the macerator with blade attached unscrewed left hand threads? I believe mine were because the direction of rotation tightend them in use. If it sticks, first hit the blade top squarely and evenly with a hammer to break free hardened sludge, then unscrew clockwise?

    BTW - If it's only the master head that has this problem, it's probably a clog or the pump. but is all heads going to that blackwater tank do it, the tank pumpout tube may have the dreaded hole in it, causing the tank to be full one flush after a pumpout.

  9. #9

    Re: Master head won't drain

    Quote Originally Posted by Chasemmc View Post
    The master head won't drain. It fills up and then over a few days slowly drains to empty. I have run a few gallons of CLR into the bowl with no success. Just poured a gallon a muriatic acid into the bowl, don't know if its drained through or not as I had to leave.

    Looks like 2" PVC piped with 90 angles under tub into engine room up to galley maid pump on starboard side engine room floor. Then through a 1" line with a siphon loop, disappears through floor along strake and re-appears in genny room to black water tank.

    If I attached a line to the existing 1" line, what could I force through it to de-calcify or unclog if that is where the issue is?

    Sky mentions that the old line is held up with cushion clamps every 1', so yanking it out would be a major PITA even if you could access it all. So it the procedure to abandon in place and pull through another line?

    Was thinking about replacing galley maid with a new Atlantis Freedom. I'm thinking that if I have to spend $500 having it rebuilt, better $1k for new. Anyone have any experience with these?

    thx
    I replaced the master head with Atlantes and love it. Unfortunately they don’t sell 32 volt Atlantes any more so I also had to install a 32-12 volt converter. I’m not sure if running a 24 volt model on 32 volts would significantly reduce its life.

    On the other hand, the GM heads sometimes just lose prime, particularly underway. Do you still have the 1/4 inch copper line from the seawater to the sewage side of the pump? Lossen the nut on the sewage side and see if air bubbles escape. If there’s any air in there the discharge pump just cavitates.

    Also, behind the toilet is a short length of hose between the water input and the waste line. Replace that hose and it significantly improves performance.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  10. #10

    Re: Master head won't drain

    I converted to Atlantes fresh water heads 14 years ago. I'm never going back. They just work and I don't have to ever mess with them. I have only had to remove one once to work on it. It had a nickel stuck in the macerator blades. I have no idea who was eating nickels.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

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