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Thread: Turbo Leak 12V71
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11-28-2018 10:54 AM #21Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Posts
- 1,188
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
SOUTHPAWS
1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
PENSACOLA, FL
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11-28-2018 11:05 AM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Posts
- 296
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
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Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
Brian,
I'd be really interested in knowing how you'd clean those coolers. We have the same boat. On mine, the overhead clearance on the forward coolers is next to nothing. I've always figured I'd have to pull the studs out to remove the damper assembly. Even so, a couple of those studs would have to push up into the overhead insulation. Taking up salon deck panels is a nonstarter.
IMG_9844.jpgSemper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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11-28-2018 01:48 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Posts
- 1,188
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
Actually, just realized I brought my manual home after the last trip. Phone is acting up so I can't post the pic. Here is text from the manual
1. Lubricate the toggle bolt threads with a high temp anti-seize compound such as Jet Lube (Mil Spec 1-907D), or equivalent.
2. Tighten the nut on the "V" band toggle bolt to approx 160 lb-in (18 Nm)
NOTICE: Do not pull a misaligned turbine housing into alignment with the 'V' band coupling. The parts must be aligned and seated first.
3. Loosen the 'V' band coupling nut to approx 50lb-in (6Nm) torque and then re-torque the nut to 152-168 lb-in (17-19 Nm) torque.
The instructions above are for the v-band that attaches the exhaust side of the turbo housing to the middle of the turbo housing.
If you are connecting the v band from the compressor side (intake side, usually white) follow the following torque specs.
19. ...... lightly lubricate the threads of the toggle bolt with engine oil and tighten the nut to 110-130 lb-in (12-15 Nm) torqueLast edited by rustybucket; 11-28-2018 at 03:27 PM.
SOUTHPAWS
1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
PENSACOLA, FL
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11-28-2018 09:36 PM #25
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
Robert,I agree. The one in question on mine is the rear however I am going to have to remove forward damper as it is frozen up. Right now I have the rod loose and if I have an emergency at least the rear dampers will close off. I am thinking if I can get the studs to turn at the bottom instead of top then it would slide off. If that doesn’t happen which would be my luck I don’t see me taking up the new kitchen floor to do thisRustyThanks for the info. I will bring a torque wrench when I go back down. Looks like it will be second week in December due to work schedules
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11-29-2018 01:56 AM #26
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
I'd be careful running with the rusted up damper. I had a spring break and destroy the blower.
Scott
41C117 "Hattatude"
Port Canaveral Florida.
Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.
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11-29-2018 07:49 AM #27
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11-29-2018 08:50 PM #28
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
Robert,
I have been thinking more about removing the air damper & intercooler. Your studs, like mine, stick up quite a bit above the nut. I am thinking if I put a second nut on top to lock the lower one perhaps the entire stud will unscrew at the base instead of the nut coming off. Then the assembly could be slid sideways and off. Not sure how far those studs go into the block but if only an inch or two worse case they may go into the insulation a bit.
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Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
The studs are 3/8 X 16. They shouldn't be threaded into the blower more than 5/8", probably 1/2". Based on that, your insulation should be fine. Be a bitch on re-gasketing for sure.
You're going to replace the studs I know. If your double nut plan doesn't work...Remove the nuts and washers and soak the studs in penetrating oil overnight. Reinstall nuts and washers, but don't tighten, to preserve threads just in case. Apply vice grips to stud above the nuts. Be gentle either way you go. You bust a stud and you'll pay.Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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11-30-2018 09:31 AM #30
Re: Turbo Leak 12V71
If they go in to the blower only that would be better. I ass-u-med that they went through the blower into the block and would have to take both parts off. You are right about breaking one. Im not gonna force the issue if I can help it. I have also heard dont get any trash in the blower and to shop vac out before re-install. Will probably cut something to cover it with.