Puddle of oil in bilge

[dottieshusband]

The pan is 3 pieces. Full length upper pan, lower sump pan, the one with the drain plug, and usually a connection to an oil exchanger system. Also a flat plate forward covering the engine oil pump. It would be unusual for a pan gasket to suddenly start leaking big time. Start that puppy up and give it some bright light therapy to see if it might be a running leak. Only being a puddle rules out a static leak low down on the pan. You'd have several gallons in the bilge. If its black oil, of course that would rule out a tyranny leak.

[dottieshusband]

It will have to come up if it is a v configuration to remove it. You might be able to lean it over if it is a inline block. I have done it both ways.

The upper pan in the 12v71 on a 63 MY can be removed without raising the engine it weighs about 100 lbs, and you will have to remove the oil pump (its heavy too). I used Permatex Permashield to seal mine.

[dottieshusband]

And here's a picture of it being done.

[scottinsydney]

So day 3 of our week away..... oil level on dipstick ok.


Inspection today ... I could only view from the outer side of the engine....Oil drips on the oil mat under the 90 degree fitting at end of the lower pan. iPhone video of under engine shows no major leaks on bottom of pan. Oil around the upper pan seal and some leaks down side of engine.

(This starboard engine / engine room room has not been cleaned yet since I've owned the boat. The port engine and engine room has been cleaned/completed. Previous owner left a mess in both engine rooms and lots of water in the bilge which appears to have cause engine paint to peel.)

Note leak from rear of rocker cover. What do I torque the cover too? Not sure if I have the star socket required.

Also any tricks to tightening up the bolts on the starter motor as there is a good leak there.

I have John from Scarlet arriving in Sydney in 4 weeks.. so will have to get starboard engine and engine room clean by then.

oil leak.jpg

Leak from back outside end of rocker cover.

oil leak2.JPG
Oil drips over the past 3 days.

[dottieshusband]

Scott, off the top of my head, I think it's a 12 point 5/16 socket for the valve covers, but I wouldn't fool with it until you have a new foam gasket. The oil exchanger fitting on the lower oil pan will be a PITA to reseal. You'll need a non claustrophobic midget to get in there.

[scottinsydney]

So two days later I have looked at the oil mat. No wonder there was a puddle of oil over two weeks.

Today the entire engine was degreased and cleaned. Oil drops were seen on the end and middle of sump drain oil fitting. Not sure yet if its the fitting itself OR from somewhere higher up the engine. Its definitely not the oil drain pipe. The fitting and area is now spotelessly clean so hopefully I'll see an oil track from somewhere.

Regardless, the engine now looks 100% clean and is ready for Scarlet's November visit to Sydney, if not quite up to the pristine standard of dottieshusband's motors.

sump.jpg

[yachtsmanbill]

Drop 3-4 one ounce bottles of flourescent dye in the oil (specifically made for this) Start it and inspect with a blacklight (ebay for <$10.00 US) You see the leak(S) within minutes. ws

[SKYCHENEY]

As stated before, if you have leaks at the valve covers, get new silicone gaskets. You don't really need to get the bolts that tight, but you need good gaskets that have not been crimped or folded over which can happen if you're not careful when reseating the covers.

I think the old style gasket was black rubber and the newer style is silicone and is a much better gasket.

[scottinsydney]

Two days on from cleaning the engine and I went in with an inspection mirror.

I found that each of the the rear nine lower sump pan bolt heads have big drops of oil on them. No oil around them.

The sump oil drain fitting is not leaking. Oil from the sump bolt above was dropping on to it.

I would prefer to use mechanical and chemical means first. Looking at dottieshusband's photo I don't like the look of taking the lower pan off if I don't have to.

So is there any reason not to tighten the lower sump bolts? If so what torque, assuming I can get a torque wrench in there?

And there are also these types of gasket/seal rejuvinating products.. an interesting article.

https://axleadvisor.com/best-engine-oil-stop-leak/

[kelpy]

I would suggest not putting anything into a DD oil sump excerpt straight 40 wt oil. Indicator dye should be ok but nothing else. If there is a leak, it needs to be fixed correctly.

I would suggest beginning by tightening up all of the oil pan bolt that yo can reach. Get them tight but don't go overboard - there is a gasket in there that does the work. Clean up the area and look for any new leaks. You will get there.