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  1. #1

    Source for 32v wall switches

    I have a couple of these that need replacement and am having trouble locating them.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  2. #2

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    If you are looking for the green push button switches for galley maids I just bought one from Raz Marine last week. I think they had a few left.

  3. #3

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Wall switches for what? If lights, regular 120v switches work for DC whether 12,24 or 32
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  4. #4

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Pascal beat me to it but what he said or most any switch from a Marine store will work. John
    Mahalo V
    1974 53 Motoryacht
    Hull Number 406
    San Diego, Ca. Ready 32 Nordic Tug, Brunswick Ga.

  5. #5

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Be careful using 120 volt house hold switches for switching loads both inductive and resistive on DC systems. This is a copy/excerpt from a switch designer forum. This is why our DC switches make a loud snap when they operate. The switches used to control DC circuits on our boat circuits look like house hold toggle switches but are motor rated heavy duty switches and by design the contacts wipe each other when activated.

    "Slow or quick-break; should switch contacts be broken slowly or quickly? It depends on whether the electricity is AC or DC. This may seem odd since electricity is electricity. But AC varies in magnitude and direction while DC maintains a steady unidirectional flow, and an interesting phenomenon exhibits itself when AC and DC circuits are broken. Consider an AC and a DC circuit, each carrying the same amperage. When an AC circuit is slowly broken, the arc or spark is extinguished quickly — a desirable condition (AC naturally has "current zeros" twice a cycle.) Conversely, when a DC circuit is slowly broken, the arc can be drawn much longer before it is extinguished. This is an undesirable condition which leads to pitting of switch contacts, which leads to overheating and premature failure of the switch, which can also lead to fire!"
    Tim
    1979 53' MY Hull #566
    KNOW PRESSURE
    Hampton, Virginia

  6. #6

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Interesting consideration and while it probably matters with larger loads, I doubt it matters for a few light bulbs, even your average incandescent. And nowadays with LEDs, it s pretty much a non issue. Now if you need a switch for a heavy DC pump or large halogens flood lights, then yes.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  7. #7

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Quote Originally Posted by KPTIM View Post
    Be careful using 120 volt house hold switches for switching loads both inductive and resistive on DC systems. This is a copy/excerpt from a switch designer forum. This is why our DC switches make a loud snap when they operate. The switches used to control DC circuits on our boat circuits look like house hold toggle switches but are motor rated heavy duty switches and by design the contacts wipe each other when activated.

    "Slow or quick-break; should switch contacts be broken slowly or quickly? It depends on whether the electricity is AC or DC. This may seem odd since electricity is electricity. But AC varies in magnitude and direction while DC maintains a steady unidirectional flow, and an interesting phenomenon exhibits itself when AC and DC circuits are broken. Consider an AC and a DC circuit, each carrying the same amperage. When an AC circuit is slowly broken, the arc or spark is extinguished quickly — a desirable condition (AC naturally has "current zeros" twice a cycle.) Conversely, when a DC circuit is slowly broken, the arc can be drawn much longer before it is extinguished. This is an undesirable condition which leads to pitting of switch contacts, which leads to overheating and premature failure of the switch, which can also lead to fire!"
    And all this time I just thought they clicked like they do because they were worn out. Btw, I realize that the switch plates (covers) are smaller than normal size plates. They were made of bakelite but I don't think the company is in business anymore. Does anyone know where to get the small plates?
    Prometheus
    1978 53' MY Hull #529
    Viera, FL

  8. #8

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal View Post
    Interesting consideration and while it probably matters with larger loads, I doubt it matters for a few light bulbs, even your average incandescent. And nowadays with LEDs, it s pretty much a non issue. Now if you need a switch for a heavy DC pump or large halogens flood lights, then yes.
    It matters. Why do you think Hatteras used the "clicking" HD switches for DC and soft switches for AC?
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  9. #9

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    There are articles all over the internet advising against using AC switches for DC loads - and Hatteras used DC switches - which is why I asked if anyone knows a source. I’ll call Sams tomorrow.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  10. #10

    Re: Source for 32v wall switches

    Quote Originally Posted by SKYCHENEY View Post
    It matters. Why do you think Hatteras used the "clicking" HD switches for DC and soft switches for AC?
    I thought it was so my guests would know they were turning on 32volt stuff. Thats how I let them know not to leave 32volt lights on so they dont run batteries down if there is a charging issue. I guess I learned something here again.

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