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  1. #51

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by MVCaprice View Post
    I agree, but the entire closed circuit system is steel/iron on most engines. Not much i can do about that.
    If it's serous metal then I clean them up and coat with phosphoric acid. Follow directions and then repeat.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C
    Charleston, SC

  2. #52

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    If you treat bronze fittings with Corrosion X before installing them, they will stay looking good for quite a while. Respray them at least yearly.

  3. #53

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Scarlett View Post
    James, before you use the Quantam watch the you tube videos called Boat Works Today. He has an episode about that paint. He tested it. Worth your time to watch it. John
    John, I have watched the video and thought it was very helpful explaining what results to expect when using this product. John Boswell w/ EMC has reached out to me via phone and we will get together after first week of May when we're both in town (Charleston,SC) to look at M/V No Regrets. I will let you know what direction we go. Do you have any pros/cons opinion on this product? I realize it's not the 15k or much more $ spray job but looking for a cost effective 'DIY' product that we'll be happy with!
    James
    53' MY "No Regrets"
    I.O.P, S.C.




  4. #54

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    I laid down some Interlux Perfection two part last week on the house. It took three attempts to get the mix and technique right. Have one more coat to go. The last coat looks like it was shot. I did my battery boxes with some extra. Hadn’t planned on that, so the prep was minimal. 48 hours later polishing compound on a buffer wouldn’t do much, too hard. Sanded it with 320 and then buffed it to a mirror. High hopes to close this out.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C
    Charleston, SC

  5. #55

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    James, it might be worth your time to try some true Awlgrip 2 part lpu paint using there brushing catalyst and brushing thinner. If you do ,watch some videos on how to mix and apply, try some not so important pieces to get the technique down before you tackle a big job. It’s not easy to get everything exactly right, but when you do the results can be stunning. We just did 2 coats on our hull in the water with 2 people painting, one rolling the other tipping and a third person looking for errors. Overall the hull looks like it was sprayed, but both of us had been using the paint for years. Rusty on Seven is going to do a friends boat, maybe he will also have a report on his results. John
    Mahalo V 53 Motoryacht, San Diego, Ca.

  6. #56

    Cool Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    John, thanks for info. Saw your pics before and we all were impressed! Thats what gave me the inspiration to take on this project!
    Robert, of course yours as well! Was not attempting to divert attention from your outstanding work!!!
    James
    53' MY "No Regrets"
    I.O.P, S.C.




  7. #57

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    Something I found that is helpful when painting engines without removing all hoses ect is to use alum foil. It allows you to mask odd shaped objects without doing the plastic and tape struggle.

  8. #58

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Texastailboard View Post
    Something I found that is helpful when painting engines without removing all hoses ect is to use alum foil. It allows you to mask odd shaped objects without doing the plastic and tape struggle.
    Turn off battery switches if you do that. There are a couple of contacts on the motors that could short.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C
    Charleston, SC

  9. #59

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    There is a good DVD available from Jamestown Distributors on how to roll and tip AwlGrip. Once you have it down, the results are amazing. And if you aren't spraying it, it goes three times as far.

    After I did the topsides of my boat, I did a friend's American Iron race car in black, and it STILL looks great, years later, and I don't know how many track hours.

  10. #60

    Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rosenthal View Post
    There is a good DVD available from Jamestown Distributors on how to roll and tip AwlGrip. Once you have it down, the results are amazing. And if you aren't spraying it, it goes three times as far.

    After I did the topsides of my boat, I did a friend's American Iron race car in black, and it STILL looks great, years later, and I don't know how many track hours.
    Been practicing on smaller areas and battery boxes. Getting better and better. The biggest issue I'm trying to overcome is the reducer mix. Looks like 8-10% works at 75 degrees or so. Compensating for temp doesn't seem too difficult. It's the wind that's the complicating factor for me making paint set a little quicker than needed to lay down. Not painting in high winds, but lately the humidity has been lower than normal and, I guess, drying faster. Definitely an art to it. The trick is to not make it modern art.
    Semper Siesta
    Robert Clarkson
    ASLAN, 1983 55C
    Charleston, SC

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