Fresh Water Leaks

[Ernie Piotrowski]

In the course of replacing my hot water heater with the same oem but a different generation, found out the dimensions were a little different making mating of the flare fittings all but impossible without numerous cuts and reflaring. During that process looked back behind the entrance step to the cabin and surprised to find that Hatteras had used a piece of black rubber hose to connect the ends of the copper tubing run together. Still can't determine where the copper line actually goes under the step (would probably need to tear out the step to get to it). The point is, that hose has been there for 23 years without a leak and with only one clamp. Granted it is the cold water line which would not entail expansion of the hose due to heat, but I plan on using water hose and two clamps on the copper line side-one clamp should be sufficient on the brass barbed side. At the same time, have now in place a series of 3-way valves which enable me to draiin and winterize the hot water heater, hot and cold water lines without the need to disconnect anything and to run the anti-freeze through the 12-volt pump using a garden hose adapter to the 3-way and dropping the open end of the hose into the anti-freeze. I'm happy!

[doc g]

a compression union fitting can be pulled apart, try to pull a flare.....it will not happen..................Pat

[Trojan]

If you can pull a compression fitting apart with shore water pressure 100 psi. You either did it wrong or you better turn the the pressure down .Way down. I run 360 psi on a 1\4in. copper tube and compression fittings on a transmission gage.



BILL

[egaito]

a compression union fitting can be pulled apart, try to pull a flare.....it will not happen..................Pat

I'm sure it's happended, but mine have seen over 80lbs (by accident) with no ill effects.

It was a broken flare that I replaced with a compression fitting.

YMMV,

-Ed

[Trojan]

Putting rubber hose over any type of pipe or tube that does not have multi ridge barbs on it is just plane poor mechanics. Doing things like that is what sinks boats. Its not just the compression of the clamp that holds the hose to the tube it also needs the ridges that the barb provides to lock the hose to the tube. By rights the clamp only locks the hose onto the tube. Preventing the hose from expanding under preasure. The multi ridges of the barbs seal it with each ridge. Once the hose is over the barbs it takes only a little pleasure from the clamp to retain it. It's less time and less worry to do it correct. I would never use a hose in an area where I could not see it to be sure it was not going bad. All the fresh water lines on my boat are 1\2 copper tubing. If they are supported like they should be they will not vibrate and break.



BILL

[trogers]

Where was your leak?

I also have a 56' and would like to be on the lookout for a potential issue.