Fresh Water Leaks

[JLR]

I just recommisioned the fresh water system on my 56 MY. For the first time in 8 years, I have fresh water leaks. Given the relatively limited pressure in the fresh water system, will cutting the copper pipe and putting a rubber hose between the two ends to stop the leak work (with hose clamps on each end)? I would hate to have to get someone to solder the holes because they are in real tough spots to get to.

[MikeP]

Appropriate water hose will work fine; Many boats use only hose for the water lines. Double clamp the hose for added security. It would be a good practice to flare the tubing where the hose attaches but not really necessary. The pressure in the system shouldn't exceed 40-50PSI which is not much of strain for hose/clamps. Many air pressure lines operating at 150PSI are secured with hose clamps. Just check clamp tension occasionally.

[REBrueckner]

If the copper tubing carries HOT WATER, you must double clamp and make sure they are tight...after a few passes of hot water, retighten...hose,clamps and hot water can be a real pain til they get settled together...Mikes suggestion you a slight flare is also a good idea but keep it modest so you can get the right size hose on the tubing. In freezing climates, hose is much less prone to freezing as it expands when copper doesn't..It also holds heat much better...

[doc g]

Why not just use a flare - union . Cut out the bad spot and flare it on either side then install the union. Those things are bullet proof................Pat

[Beckytek]

If you have 1/2 inch copper tubing you can buy quick connect plastic fittings from West marine. They also have plastic pipe that will withstand the hot water. The tubing comes in blue for cold and red for hot. Just cut the bad section of copper tubing out push on the connector, push the plastic pipe onto the other side. No tools required. Better yet when you want to disconnect them you push a ring against the fitting and they separate, again no tools. I have them in my fresh water system and always use city pressure with not one leak. The tubing is 5/8" OD.

[egaito]

I wish I could remember the names of these things....

Lowes and Home Depot carry plastic junctions that can take copper in one side and hose out of the other. It's a quick-disconnect type fitting that they're plumbing houses with this stuff now. It's similar to a product that was used to plumb an '85 vintage boat I had. The only leak ever encountered was from a frozen faucet.

-Ed G

[SKYCHENEY]

Any plumbing that I have modified or added on my 1985 has been with the same 1/2" copper as was on the boat originally. If you don't have a flaring tool, they are not very expensive. Then, as was stated earlier, you can just add a flared union in place of any broken line. It will look as if it was OEM and the fix will never leak or come apart on you. This is the proper way to fix it, IMHO.

[Trojan]

What is wrong with a compression fitting and a farrel? Just cut it, clean it and screw it together.



BILL

[SKYCHENEY]

Compression fitting works too. I just don't think a piece of hose stuck over the end of the copper is the best way to go.

[egaito]

Compression fitting works too. I just don't think a piece of hose stuck over the end of the copper is the best way to go.

Nothing against the original copper, but it was vibration, and the "working" of the metal at the flare that caused my failure, which is why I went to a flexible material at that point.

I also agree that putting hose over a flare may not be the best way to go. My concern with this would be that the hose would be cut eventually by the flare, and without it, it simply wouldn't stay on the copper.

I like the compression fittings.....