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Thread: exhaust hose

  1. #21

    Re: exhaust hose

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal View Post
    I didn't used the name till somebody mentioned it. . I called them inserts.
    What holds them in place? Or is the pressure of the clamp through the fiberglass enough to do that?

    Thanks.
    1978 53' Motor Yacht "LADY KAY V"
    Hull number 524
    Chesapeake Bay

  2. #22

    Re: exhaust hose

    Krush, not sure that's a muffler, think could be a flapper check valve only. Have a much smaller one in our genset exhaust between the exhaust elbow and the lift muffler.
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  3. #23

    Re: exhaust hose

    Who makes the flapper check valves for exhaust systems ? :..……...Pat

  4. #24

    Re: exhaust hose

    Quote Originally Posted by oscarvan View Post
    What holds them in place? Or is the pressure of the clamp through the fiberglass enough to do that?

    Thanks.
    They are sized to be a tight fit then the pressure from the T clanks helps too

    I had to get some made and installed on the lazzara 84 I run, with C32s. While replacing the 15” diameter hose between the engine and the fiberglass pipe, the mechanic over tightened the T clamps and cracked the glass. Ended up adding crush sleeve on both sides.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  5. #25

    Re: exhaust hose

    Exhaust check valves from Centek, biggest they have is 6"

    Lots of good stuff on their www.

    https://www.centekmarine.com/products/

    Link to the check valves

    https://www.centekmarine.com/product.../check-valves/
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  6. #26

    Re: exhaust hose

    1986 63 MY. I need to change the exhaust hose connector between the tube and forward end of the muffler. On my model,
    I have good starboard side access to the inboard and top side of the hose via the cabinet under the master
    head. The hose id 10" id, 13" long and best I can guess is 6-7" between the fiberglas ends. I have clearance
    to slide the hose forward on the tube, but not back on the muffler. Trying to figure the easiest way to remove. I
    might can cut it in half with a sawzall, but thinking I can slit the hose, with a Dremel, along its length over
    the tube end and slide forward 3-4". Ideas and tips welcome.

    Replacing with silicone hose. Suggestions for source for 10" ID hose?

    John McCarley
    Water Colors - 1986 63 MY
    Wrightsville Beach NC

  7. #27

    Re: exhaust hose

    I need to do similar work, my guess is that the riser needs to be removed from the turbos and the tube moved forward into the engine room. It would be easier to cut the hose in two and then install the new hose with the tube pulled back . I suspect that I have a crushed tube, I was assuming the I needed to replace the tube and then put a stainless insert into the tube. Pascal mentioned just putting an insert would work, if the tube is cracked, would it be water tight after the insert is in place?
    JMooney
    61 MY 1983 #341
    “Jerrie”
    Miami , FL

  8. #28

    Re: exhaust hose

    The guy on here with the Masterplan Miami YouTube channel did a video on replacing the exhaust hose on his 58YF. You might try to find that. John
    Mahalo V
    1974 53 Motoryacht
    Hull Number 406
    San Diego, Ca. Ready 32 Nordic Tug, Brunswick Ga.

  9. #29

    Re: exhaust hose

    All done. Exhaust is 2" deep in seawater, plugged with a couple of shopping bags filed with play sand.
    Used razor knife to cut flap in top side of old exhaust hose. Used small drill pump to remove about 16
    gallons of seawater. Caught the remaining gallon in a pan when I loosened the t-bolt clamps. Old hose
    was easily cut with razor knife. Both the tail end of the exhaust tube and leading end of muffler had
    been cracked by overtightening. A previous fiberglas repair had failed on one pipe. There was only 1"
    between ends, I cut back the tail of the exhaust pipe 3" to provide more installation clearance. I then
    ground back damage along cracks with a side grinder (see pic). Prepped and filled crack with thickened epoxy.
    Added fiberglas cloth 6" on either side of crack on outside and inside of tubes ends. After curing, used
    soapy water and easily installed silicone hose and clamps.

    John McCarley
    Water Colors - 1986 63MY
    Wrightsville Beach NC
    Attached Images
    Last edited by divert00; 02-18-2020 at 12:42 PM.

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